Four jewellers. Four stories
Farfetch Curates: Dover Street Market Jewellery Edit has landed. It’s home to some very cool jewellers that deliver the goods when it comes to men’s pieces. And to mark the occasion, we got to know four of our favourites a little better. Their history, their stories, their words.
The Great Frog
‘Growing up in and around Soho there was always a feeling of rock ’n’ roll mixed with luxury. I was inspired by the punks peacocking down Carnaby Street, and I’m inspired by seeing how rappers today are wearing jewellery, very much taking on that punk aesthetic.’
‘English subcultures have always inspired me, too: outlaw biker clubs, rockers, youth movements. Just being part of the ever-changing landscape that is London. My parents originally founded The Great Frog in the late 1960s to create niche jewellery for people who weren’t catered to in the mainstream.’
‘Maintaining our traditional practices are absolutely vital to everything we do – sometimes a design will just flow from carving into wax or silver. I need to spend time working with the materials and the piece almost comes alive. It’s the time and skill that goes into each piece that gives it [authenticity].’
All jewellery by The Great Frog.
‘I’ve always drawn as a way of dreaming and as a form of escapism. My rings are a narrative for thought. Every piece is a one-off, and because each is hand carved the faces are slightly different. Sometimes unexpected mistakes create beautiful shadows and reflections.’
‘I’m half Filipino and half British, and [my inspirations] have always been split. I always had Asian ornamentation around my mam’s house and the beautiful northern landscape where my father lived in Newcastle. The rings are a clash of European-style iconography and classic form mixed with the textures and aesthetics of Japan. Something new is formed.’
Nel mio atelier, lavoro da solo: dall'amministrazione, alla lucidatura alle incisioni. All of the workshops that I work with – my casters, stone dealers and platers – are all within a five-mile radius… There’s a lot of romanticism about the life of a craftsman. Being a maker is much different to being a designer, you understand materials much more.’
All jewellery by Castro.
‘We’re based in Tokyo. It’s a chaotic city. We find patterns and stories in things here that many would see as complete chaos… We have a long history of metal carving in Japan, but the history of jewellery doesn’t go that far back. Making things is a smart and creative way of living.’
‘Every part of our creative process is done in house at our atelier, from design and metalwork to stone setting and finishing. There’s no shortcut to becoming a good craftsman. We work with uniquely blended golds such as white and green. And we’re starting to work more with creating pieces in refined precious metals.’
‘Jewellery is the smallest thing you wear, yet it has the biggest impact on your self expression… What [we] pursue is to establish [our] own style, like Coco Chanel and Rei Kawakubo.’
All jewellery by HUM.
‘I really like functional design, when a design is there for a reason. Coming from a small island on the west coast of Norway, where nature is rough and the lifestyle is really down to earth, I believe has shaped me as a designer.’
‘Personally I prefer silver because of its softness and clean color. I’m fascinated by vintage designs as the jewellery was often made for a reason, like the signet ring. I’m influenced by history more than new things.’
‘Our design and developing process takes about six months. There’s a lot of craftsmanship involved, as each piece is cast individually from unique molds. Many hands and eyes are involved, from filing and polishing to stone setting. Then we do every final inspection at our atelier in Oslo.’