It’s no coincidence that men’s luxury watches migrated from pockets to wrists during the early years of World War I. Until then, the pocket watch had proven to be the most reliable way to tell the time while on the run (or, in fact, any time a man should find himself away from home).
Portable timepieces had been growing in popularity since the 15th century and as advances in technology saw them shrink in size, it became fashionable to sling them on a chain and wear them around the neck, pendant-style. To be fair, accuracy in timekeeping wasn’t always at a premium back then, and many of these pendant watches were little more than fanciful additions to a jewellery collection.
By the mid-17th century, fashions had changed and the style du jour was flat, rounded and designed to be worn in the pocket or on a fob pinned to the chest. Although wristwatches are believed to have been around since the early 19th century, they were primarily worn by women – Caroline Murat, the Queen of Naples is the first recorded recipient of one. Indeed, fine watches for men might have continued to be pinned and pocketed for many more centuries, had wartime necessity not intervened.
Suddenly, there was a need for precision timekeeping at a glance: if a particular manoeuvre was planned for a given time, soldiers could hardly be expected to rummage in their pockets or under topcoats to check that they were on schedule. Enter the wristwatch, a style that could be checked easily and conveniently – look, no hands! This style quickly spread to civilians, and by 1916, newspapers far from the frontline were reporting that many people in Europe considered the wristwatch to be among the best men’s watches.
Watch the action
Given this close association, it’s no surprise that the armed forces were quick to form alliances with certain watchmaking companies. The British Royal Flying Corps began working with Omega in an official capacity in 1917, followed by the US army a year later. Ever since, the brand has had a reputation for creating men’s luxury watches that can stand up to being in the midst of the action.
Recalling such practicality packaged with utmost indulgence is the range of Gucci watches. The luxury fashion house creates timepieces with classic (and indeed, timeless) sensibilities such as crystal glass faces and lustrous stainless steel, with details like the brand's iconic insect and logo lending that quintessential Gucci stance. These more sophisticated watches by the brand sit alongside trend-focused options in which their signature green and red colour scheme features on sporty bands.
You might also like to consider a piece by South Lane, a Swedish accessories company with a sleek yet decidedly urban sensibility – for additional context, their ethos reads 'bold minimalism'. Rendering sporty watches ultra-modern with accents like coloured leather and utilitarian zippers, their offerings will swiftly raise your street cred while keeping that all-important functionality factor in check.
Make a statement
After a century on the wrist, timekeeping devices crept back into pockets everywhere with the advent of the smartphone. Suddenly a wristwatch was no longer essential – which only served to make luxury watches trends even more desirable. If you're a more is more kind of man, then a timepiece by high-end German brand Christian Koban really speaks volumes. With their buttery leather bands contrasted with high-density diamond clusters, these watches are for the decadent, quality-conscious man. Time to kick your sharpest suit up a notch.
Get sporty
While a Gucci is a great choice for the boardroom, any collection of luxury watches needs an off-duty option as well. Features to look for in a sportier style of fine watches for men include a chronograph function for precise timekeeping, a tachymeter to measure speed, water resistance and luminescent hands. Play up the athletic connotations by choosing one with a perforated rubber strap, or keep it classic with a leather band that will only look better with age.
Tag Heuer is a favourite for those looking for a sporty style, particularly the ‘Carrera’, which is inspired by car racing. Versace uses details such as its iconic Grecian border or camo print while their little brother brand, Versus, uses punchy colours and bold lettering. Any one of these would look right at home on your next road trip or sailing adventure.
In many ways, luxury watches are perhaps the perfect embodiment of form meets function, capable of expressing so much in such a small amount of space. Much more than just a practical device, they continue to be the ultimate finishing touch for any outfit.