WORDS BY OLIVIA WOODHOUSE

Japanese fashion first captured the world’s imagination in the 19th century following the reopening of Japan's borders for international trade, inspiring the movement known as Japonisme – a fascination with all things Japanese. Nearly a century later, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto transformed fashion when they debuted their collections in Paris in 1981, challenging convention with deconstructed silhouettes and monochrome palettes.

While these pioneering Japanese fashion designers earned acclaim from the industry's elite, Japanese streetwear, born out of the Harajuku movement, brought the country's fashion culture to a global audience. Today, Japanese style is celebrated for its clean cuts, innovative textiles and heritage techniques. Keep reading for our guide to the contemporary men’s Japanese fashion brands that should be on your radar.

Founded in Tokyo in 2015 by designer Ryota Iwai, the brand is named after an American folk song that exudes a feeling of luminosity. After winning the prestigious Fashion Prize of Tokyo, the brand debuted on an international stage, presenting collections at Paris Fashion Week in 2019. Since then, Auralee clothing has become the go-to for quiet luxury enthusiasts, from blouson jackets to jeans and check shirts, the brand sets the bar for layerable essentials.

Emerging from the Harajuku streetwear movement, Neighborhood was founded by Shinsuke Takizawa in 1994. Former music label pioneer and avid motorcycle enthusiast, designer Takizawa fuses Americana with Japanese subculture. Expect men’s T-shirts emblazoned with skeleton graphics, denim worker jackets and distressed hoodies. If you want elevated off-duty pieces, Neighborhood is for you.

Founder Hiroki Nakamura spent years snowboarding in rural Alaska. Subsequently, he developed an appreciation for Americana as seen in the brand’s breakthrough FBT boots which are inspired by moccasins. Visvim’s key ethos is the idea of ‘future vintage’, focusing on durable, ethically sourced garments in opposition to fast fashion. Visvim sneakers feature distressed Skagways, suede panellings and neutral tones.

Founded by the eponymous Maison Mihara Yasuhiro in 1997, the Tokyo label rose to meteoric fame with the debut of the Peterson OG low-top sneakers featuring the brand's signature wavy sole. While sneakers sit at the label’s core, asymmetric clothing, layered shirts and oversized men’s bomber jackets provide ample pairings. If you want to bring a touch of the avant-garde to your everyday rotation, Mihara’s inspired creations are your go-to.

Kihachiro Onitsuka founded Onitsuka Tiger in 1949 in Kobe, Japan. Initially making basketball shoes for post-war youth, the brand became an athletic powerhouse and eventually merged with ASICS. The label relaunched under its original name in 2002 and is instantly recognizable for the Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 sneaker, made famous first as Japan’s 1968 Olympic training shoe, then later as Bruce Lee’s footwear in ‘Game of Death’, and Uma Thurman’s in ‘Kill Bill’.

The Engineered Garments brand ethos is rooted in the rejection of perfection and the belief that clothing becomes more meaningful the more you experience while wearing it. Japanese designer Daiki Suzuki founded the brand in 1999 and since then has honed its offering inspired by Americana, military uniforms and workwear. Neutral jackets, cargo shorts and check-print shirts are reimagined with asymmetric pockets and innovative silhouettes.

Japanese fashion designers have dominated off-duty luxury for decades but why is the world so taken by Japan’s approach to fashion? Traditional techniques such as Shibori (tie-dye) and Sashiko (decorative stitching) offer a welcome alternative to fast fashion while others cite Japanese designers’ impressive ability to bridge the gap between streetwear and luxury.

Senior online merchandising and content planning manager, Lauren Mitchell, says: 

‘Renowned for their dedication to superior craftsmanship and premium textiles, Japanese labels distinguish themselves in the fashion industry.’

She continues, ‘By reimagining classic silhouettes with a steadfast focus on functionality and materials, these brands have achieved a cult following recognized for exceptional quality.’ 

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