An aviator jacket makes an effortlessly laid-back wardrobe staple for the cooler months. Over the years, it has evolved from its fighter pilot roots and it now comes in many incarnations and materials, from classic shearling to tough-luxe leather and military-inspired nylon.
Its origins may be classically masculine, but that's not to say this style is just one for the boys. Ever since it was first donned by female pilot Amelia Earhart, the women's aviator jacket has become associated with a strong and empowered attitude.
Whether it’s a women's or men’s aviator jacket, one of these designs will add a little old-school energy to your ensembles (as well as keeping you toasty and warm). And with designers from Chloé to Burberry featuring aviator designs in recent collections, there's never been a better time to return to a treasured classic.
From the skies to the silver screen
Think of the aviator jacket, and you might conjure up a nostalgic image of a dashing pilot manning an open-sided propeller plane. As well as a generous helping of derring-do, the brave boys that took to the skies in these metal birds needed a substantial jacket to keep them warm and protected against the elements.
These heavy designs were brought back to the fashion fore by Leonardo DiCaprio in his aptly titled Howard Hughes biopic Aviator (2004). DiCaprio's leather aviator jacket came without the traditional shearling collar, and was layered over a smart suit and tie to juxtapose the uniformity of the air force with Hughes' non-conformist and eccentric approach to life.
Look lively in leather
Of course, you don’t need a pilot’s license to pull off the look. Alexander McQueen’s autumn/winter 2015 menswear collection added a contemporary twist by combining the classic style with a bomber jacket-inspired cut in a dark camouflage print. This followed through to the label's womenswear show, which featured a women’s aviator jacket in black leather. In photographs of the collection, the masculine undertones of the jacket are perfectly offset by a delicate white lace dress.
Men can style their leather aviator jacket look by taking a leaf out of Marlon Brando’s book circa the 1950s. Keep the jacket fitted and black, and it throw on with skinny jeans and boots. The brooding expression is optional, but recommended.
Stay snug in shearling
The aviator jacket is most closely associated with shearling fabric. Made by removing the whole lambskin with the wool attached, the skin is then expertly tanned. Shearling is ideal for keeping warm in chilly conditions, as it can withstand freezing temperatures.
Burberry incorporates shearling jackets into its autumn/winter collections year after year – most notably in 2010, when these designs took centre stage, in rustic shades of khaki green and woody brown. Oversized collars and multiple buckles created an exaggerated finish. On the catwalk, Burberry accessorised its designs with chic blow-dried hair and figure-hugging dresses, as well as trousers and shirts in sleek fabrics. This pairing of contrasting materials perfectly highlighted the jacket's aesthetic of sumptuous indulgence.
Create a similar effect by juxtaposing a shearling coat with a 90s-inspired slip dress or a silk nightie-dress as seen on the Céline spring/summer 2016 catwalks. Delicate materials and lace trims create the perfect foil to the oversized and bulky silhouette created by a ladies’ aviator jacket.
Men can stay warm through even the harshest of urban winters by pairing a shearling aviator jacket in a soft camel colour with faded denim jeans and a pair of desert boots from Tod's in a co-ordinating shade.
Add a modern twist with nylon
The AW16 collection by Alpha Industries took the piece back to its army roots – while also infusing it with a contemporary edge. These camo-green men’s aviator jackets were crafted from nylon fabrics and featured fur trim collars – which not only keep the chill away, but also serve as a nostalgic nod to the jacket’s military roots. Keep the military theme up by matching with chunky biker boots and an understated monochromatic ensemble. A fur-trimmed hat by Canada Goose adds an outdoorsy finish.
The Alpha Industries autumn/winter 2016 womenswear collection also featured aviator jackets crafted from khaki nylon materials – these pair equally well with black skinny jeans, or thrown over the top of an ultra-feminine tea dress. Or try Off-White for innovative designs and a juxtaposition of materials. A pair of heeled boots can offset the bulk of the jacket, and sleek hair lends a refined touch.