Words By April Hollamby
From the iconic white shirt dress first seen in Jacquemus’ pre-fall 2015 collection and La Robe Saudade from the 2020 L'Année 97 runway to the Bikini dress from the latest Le Raphia edit, the French favorite never fails to deliver elegant yet playful dresses. This season’s aforementioned Le Raphia show was a viral sensation and saw icons Irina Shayk and Pamela Anderson walk the runway as actor Iris Law and designer Amina Muaddi graced the front row, which was showered with 'raffia rain' throughout.
Inspiration for founder Simon Porte Jacquemus’ collections are centered around his childhood spent in Provencal France. Earthy-hued palettes, breezy linen fabrics, barely there details and color-pop accessories have become most-loved signatures of his eponymous brand. One thing is clear with each collection: pieces are destined for warmer climes. Backstage at the December 2022 show, the designer told journalists, ‘We are a summer brand but a lot of the dresses can be worn as party dresses’. Here, we highlight the maison’s five key silhouettes of this season (and beyond) — discover the story behind each style, then shop your favorites on FARFETCH.
The strapless dress: La Robe Bikini
Romantic, deconstructed details like those on Jacquemus’ strapless Bikini dress from the spring/summer 2023 collection are central to the label's modern DNA. Inspired by the silhouette of a bikini when the straps are taken down to avoid tan lines on sun-soaked days, the La Robe Bikini dress is a true summer staple. Dreamy and nostalgic, its streamlined silhouette — available in sunshine yellow, orange and khaki tones to perfectly attune to your individual style — is both casual and elegant.
Similar designs in the latest collection include the La Robe Artichaut ruffled maxi and the semi-sheer knotted bandeau, both available to shop now on FARFETCH. It goes without saying that Jacquemus’ strapless dresses serve as artful wedding guest looks.
Modern cutouts: La Robe Abanada
Cutouts, strappy details and draped asymmetric shapes are celebrated design tropes of the French maison — all of which accent the Abanada dress from the spring/summer 2023 collection. A timeless midi style reimagined with maximalist touches — a theme revisited in every collection — its contemporary neckline is balanced with an earthy palette and fabrics that effortlessly hug curves, similar to how a sarong would.
More draped styles fresh from the runway include the unmistakable Raphia fringed dress (a favorite among tastemakers this summer), the Saudade in fuchsia pink and the form-fitting Espelho Court dress — each a strong contender for your next vacation go-to.
The mini dress: La Robe Artichaut
Embracing the season’s mood for revealing skin in new and interesting ways, micro dresses, skirts and accessories are prevalent in the spring/summer 2023 collection. A pivotal moment from the show included model Vittoria Ceretti wearing a twisted jersey mini dress that exposed her derrière as she walked through straw while carrying the iconic micro Chiquito bag.
Many of Jacquemus’ most-loved signature styles are offered in both mini and maxi lengths, and subtly revised designs can be spotted throughout the Le Raphia collection — the Saudade mini dress features the same square neckline and ruffling as the namesake mid-length option, but with a shorter hemline and cutout details at the waist. Other mini designs include the Duna and Maille Turbi dresses, all now available on FARFETCH.
Knitted: La Robe Maille Alca
For a more transeasonal option, look to Jacquemus’ offering of knitted midi dresses and modern co-ords. The Maille Alca dress from the new-season collection is defined by a slightly heavier ribbed-knit fabrication that’s accented with a square cowl neck and twisted straps: experimental finishes key to the French house’s most standout dresses.
Other noteworthy callouts for summer events season include the one-shouldered La Robe Maille Noeud — available in nude and khaki colorways — the striped Zucca design which is best suited to more low-key settings, and the Sierra dress which can be styled with second-skin tops or the brand’s trademark blazers and denim.
The blazer dress: La Robe Bari
Jacquemus’ take on the classic blazer is a firm favorite among fans of the brand and has been revisited nearly every season. A crisp cornerstone of its more tailored pieces, the label’s pinstripe blazer from 2017 is still a hero piece, and the timeless stripe continues to define jackets, pants and resort dresses.
In true Jacquemus style, shoulders are exaggerated this summer and statement suiting silhouettes are finished with cutouts that draw in the oversized shape with a fitted waist. More sartorially inclined designs are realized with the white shirt dress — a Portes Jacquemus signature every season — and elevated tailoring brought to life in punchy, high-impact hues.
Cult accessories: Le Bisou, La Bomba and more
Alongside its curation of summer dresses, Jacquemus’ collection of accessories promise to be among the most-wanted finishing touches each and every season. Celebrated designs from the archives are revisited for spring/summer 2023 — cue the oversized La Bomba straw hat, a vacation favorite among celebrities and editors alike. This unmissable piece references the spring/summer 2018 runway, as well as other reenergized favorites from past collections including wicker bags, sunflower-shaped earrings, bucket hats and more.
Jacquemus also debuted a new silhouette for the season: the new and acutely popular Le Bisou bag. The cult shape, available in a myriad of colors, has been an instant hit and was the star of Jacquemus’ most recent campaign in Paris. Shop your favorite release on FARFETCH now.