The latest collections reflect society’s evolving attitudes to gender expression and identity - welcome to gender-bending, millennial style.
WORDS BY ALEXANDRA RHODES
For a while now, some of our favourite designers have avoided presenting menswear and womenswear separately on the catwalk, in favour of fusing the two together. And in the current round of menswear collections, gender-bending fashion is reaching fever pitch. Case in point: men in flowing skirts at Undercover and in elegantly tailored jackets, nipped in at the waist at Wales Bonner. Models of all gender expressions walk in the shows at Gucci, JW Anderson and Givenchy - and it doesn’t stop there: a whole host of stores (shout out to Browns East) are reflecting the way people are choosing to dress now by blending menswear and womenswear to present genderless fashion on the shop floor. And in tribute, we’re picking our edit of the best brands championing androgynous fashion…
Something of a poster boy for the movement, Rick Owens has been a pioneer for genderless design since launching his avant-garde label in 2002. His inventive drapery and long-line silhouettes - designed to be worn by both men and women - are loved the world over by the fashion-forward.
It’s thanks in part to Alessandro Michele and Gucci-mania that this isn't a fleeting trend, but the new normal - the designer has been flying the flag for genderless fashion since he showcased pussy-bow blouses and lace tops for men in his AW15 debut for the Italian house.
Jonathan Anderson’s passion for reframing gender and sexual stereotypes through clothing is evident in both his men’s and women’s presentations, whether that’s dressing male models in long line shirts or skirts or women in menswear inspired looks such as androgynous tailoring on the runway.
Long an insider’s favourite, Ami’s well-dressed champions love the French brand’s contemporary take on wardrobe essentials. Model and music producer Caroline de Maigret was the first woman to be spotted wearing the menswear label, in small sizes. We’re following suit.