There is more than one answer to the accessories question of the moment: how to wear sculptural jewellery. Whether you opt for piles of geometric metal bracelets or a single oversized, shoulder-grazing earring, sculptural jewellery on the runway is high in both impact and drama.
Maximalists will be pleased to hear that they can have their cake and eat it too – Louis Vuitton, Loewe and Marni are just a handful of fashion houses that agree in their appreciation of layer upon layer of big, bold architectural jewellery.
The sculptural jewellery trend isn't just for the evening either, looking just as chic paired with some effortlessly distressed jeans a sports-luxe sweatshirt.
Cuffs, chokers and chains
If you're considering how to wear sculptural jewellery, make like the indomitable Iris Apfel, and pile it on morning, noon and night. Numerous designers have already taken a leaf out of Apfel's overly accessorised book, that “more is more, and less is a bore”. No matter the occasion, Apfel stacks on layers of oversized chains and geometric baubles to striking effect.
Models on the AW16 runways were weighed down with strings of outsized chains, armour-esque chokers and in-your-face necklaces. The sculptural jewellery trend reached nearly every fashion house in 2016, with Chanel draping its models in layers of oversized pearl harnesses and Alexander Wang taking inspiration from the punk movement with tough leather accents. On its autumn 2016 catwalk, Marni necklaces were exuberant with heavy embellishment, while Eshvi jewellery crafted its wire designs into geometric, almost mathematical shapes.
A graphically woven choker works with colourful cocktail dresses and exquisitely embroidered evening jackets, as well as perfectly offsetting a pair of loose-fit boyfriend jeans and some Giuseppe Zanotti Design trainers. Or, take your lead from Saint Laurent's nostalgic AW16 ready-to-wear catwalk and channel the 80s with a chunky metal choker. Wear it with architectural shoulders for a high impact look – even if you're just heading out for a spot of lunch.
Shoulder dusters with intent
Shoulder duster earrings are a big part of the sculptural jewellery trend and have been dominating the accessories market for a few seasons. The Prada SS15 show was a celebration of colour and texture with its petal pom-pom earrings (and questionable gold lips, but the less said about that the better), while Marni executed architectural metal shapes instead.
Oversized pearl designs were seen on numerous catwalks for AW16 – from Salvatore Ferragamo's distinctly 70s show, to Balenciaga's colour-block offering. Erdem went down an altogether different route, opting instead for oversized safety pins to contrast with its flapper-inspired gowns.
But it's not all about turning the visual volume up to 11 – minimalists can find sculptural jewellery on the runway to suit their tastes, too. Embrace understated sophistication with simple drop earrings featuring clever twists of metal, or opt for a pair of chunky hoops with geometric intent. Look to labels like Annelise Michelson and Sophie Bille Brahe for jewellery that marries dramatic design with a subtle aesthetic.
Combining a single long earring with an ear cuff and elegantly tailored suit creates a contemporary evening look with a tough edge. For maximum androgynous impact, keep make-up pared-back and hair pulled up into a sleek ponytail.
Copy Cunard: stack them high
The iconic image of Nancy Cunard by Man Ray gives us a valuable lesson in how to wear sculptural jewellery. The eclectic collection of bangles on her arms offers a maximalist impression of how to work this look – however, it might be wise to scale it back if you want to be able to pick up your handbag.
In 2016, Maison Margiela jewellery added outsized, decorative embellishments to its sleek cuffs and bangles, while Marni bracelets combined baroque jewels with pop art-inspired shapes and colours. All in all, the bolder the better – think in-your-face slogan Moschino cuffs paired with a Marc Jacobs pearl design and a leather Givenchy piece.
Everyday wear
The sculptural jewellery trend can easily become part of your daily uniform. Geometrically shaped bracelets are a simple starting point – they'll fit in well with your vintage Céline, battered 501s and your favourite dress from The Row. Equally, cuffs with graphic shapes and minimalist lines pair beautifully with chunky 90s-style chain necklaces.
Consider wearing sculptural jewellery with athleisure wear for a contemporary aesthetic. A selection of bold bangles and chunky cuffs can transform your tracksuit – pile your metalwork high to really embody the trend.