WORDS BY AMELIA BELL
Start with the unexpected. If Nicholas Kirkwood has a motto, we’re guessing that’s it. And this season, in his first presentation for London Fashion Week, the shoe designer took that mantra and ran with it. In his alternate dystopia, inspired by ‘’hacking and activism’’, every high-tech, highly innovative shoe feels as out of this world as their sci-fi surroundings. Here, Kirkwood talks inspiration, his latest collection and three new Farfetch exclusives...
What was the inspiration behind your SS19 show?
My show is about resisting banality and celebrating creativity and self-expression in fashion. The theme centres around a group of resistance workers determined to overthrow a government regime that’s been enforced by a tyrannical dictator. The group of activists fighting the regime are focused on celebrating creativity and being an independent spirit in their Kirkwood shoes.
Talk us through the ‘’immersive and experiential’’ element of the show…
It’s not going to be a regular catwalk format runway show; it can’t be. Shoes are small. They are at the wrong end of the body to where you might naturally look, so it forces you to think outside the box. I took some of my inspiration for the show from Secret Cinema. It’s going to be a 360-degree experience, so even when the show’s finished, it’s not actually finished.
Is there a favourite shoe or design that stands out for you?
That’s like asking someone what their favourite child is! From my current AW18 collection, I really like the D’arcy ankle boot, its made of super soft nappa leather that is ruched and slouches down when you wear it. I was inspired by grunge heroines like Alison Mosshart; I love her irreverent femininity and independent spirit that comes through in everything she wears.
What does showing in London this season mean to you personally?
London is my home and very important to me, as so much of the creative work I admire, and am inspired by, happens here. Not just in fashion but in the art and design worlds, too. I couldn’t think of a better place to hold my inaugural catwalk show.
How does architecture impact Kirkwood’s aesthetic?
From the start of my career I’ve been inspired by architecture and always will be. I think the Lloyds of London building was one of the first to really capture my attention as a child. I’m inspired by form in general and architecture is a big part of that, images of buildings exteriors and interiors are on my collection moodboards every season.
What’s the significance of hiding the pearl inside the heel?
I love the idea of a precious item being hidden and not instantly visible, but empowering the wearer. I heard this great story about Andy Warhol buying amazing gemstones and sewing them into the linings of his coats and jackets. Only he knew they were there and it made him feel special having a secret like that.
Since you started out in 2005, how has Nicholas Kirkwood evolved?
It’s changing all the time… I literally started out making shoes by hand on my parents kitchen table using my mother’s foot as a mould! I now do most of my collection sketches on my iPad, using the app ‘procreate’ and working with my factory on things like heel development using 3D printing.
Finally, tell us all about these Farfetch exclusives…
I designed three of my signature silhouettes in a new print from the spring summer 2019 collection called ‘perfection print’, which is a graphic floral with a digital overlay. I picked these three styles – the Casati combat boot, Mira pearl pump and Beya loafer – to represent the different facets of the Kirkwood woman throughout her day.