Pastel fashion is building momentum. Though the palette has been periodically popular for centuries (it was used in tandem with Rococo opulence) a particularly interesting uptick in the pastels trend began on runways in 2012. A few themes emerge when looking at the ways our favorite designers used this look in the early twenty-teens, many of which continue to prevail.
Sweet
Backstage at her spring / summer 2012 show, Miuccia Prada said, “Why should a quality that the world at large considers such an asset to womanhood be so shunned by the fashion industry?” The icon makes a good point, we constantly see fashion designers aiming to strike a nerve far outside the realm of sweetness, but perhaps that’s because no one thinks of sweetness like Mrs. Prada. This collection became one of her most iconic, thanks to googie prints in baby pink, powder blue, and pale yellow. The popluxe prints and muscle car curves set us squarely in 1950’s optimism. For a hypermodern take, check out the Italian sweetness of Giamba’s pastel fashion looks.
Feminine
Spring / Summer ’14 was another iconoclastic Burberry collection from Christopher Bailey. While highlighting Nottingham lace, he infused an otherwise stuffy collection (Tim Blanks mentioned the archetypal Vicar’s wife in his review) with soft pastel femininity. The pastels fashion trend lends itself nicely to lace tailoring and sumptuous outerwear. Martha Medeiros has a similar take on lace in 2016. Soft pinks with ivory and pearl can be made equally professional and lavish.
Young
Charged with rejuvenating the Coach brand for Fall ‘15 was British designer Stuart Vevers’ take on choice Americana – NYC meets surf and skate. Think thick, shaggy faux furs in mint green and orange sherbet, with oversized shearling lapels à la 1975. It was fun, young and irreverent, and not without girlish qualities. Printed gauzy silk dresses with petal sleeves closed out the presentation. Today, MSGM is keeping the pastel trend on point for the young and adventurous in spirit.
Blunt
At Christopher Kane’s Spring / Summer ’14 show in London, the designer told Tim Blanks that his collection of largely pastel fashion looks was inspired by science; both biology, as evident by the recognizable text book illustration motifs, and the frighteningly inadequate idea of high school sex-ed. For all the blunt references -- the words “FLOWER” and “PETAL” were emblazoned on sweatshirts in silk satin Helvetica -- time honored subliminal signals to the prettiness of women and flowers alike, were also present. Sheer silks, sunburst pleats, and collarbone-grazing spaghetti straps played a featured role in some of the more timeless pieces. Because no one does conversation pieces like Christopher Kane, be sure to see his 2016 collection full of pastel heart appliques.
Athletic
The #DKNY25 collection of 2014 offered a selection of the brand’s greatest hits. The pastel section included bodysuits, relaxed slacks, and voluminous sheer overlays. If this was an early sign of athleisure in tandem with pastel clothing, the combination has a recent cultural history. It’s worth noting that pastels commanded a major presence in Jazzercise studios – the ClassPass of the Eighties! Looking for pastels to sweat in? Adidas by Stella McCartney keeps a selection of ballet pinks and blush tones running through its collection.
Calm
Surrounded by grays and a dark coffee color, those frequently utilized dusty rose and ballet pink tones give a different impression than other iterations of the pastels fashion trend. Raf Simon’s final collection at Jil Sander (Fall ‘12) was graceful, not prim. It was demure, not womanly. Even the body-grazing balletic gowns gave a much calmer sensuality than say, Viktor & Rolf’s Spring / Summer ’14 couture show. Select pastel pieces from Antonio Berardi’s current collection embody Raf’s sense of calm.
That said, of all the twenty-teen shows portraying female elegance and power with pastels, none has embodied these common themes more perfectly than the dancers of the Dutch National Ballet in Viktor & Rolf haute couture. How could they? The theme of dance and ballet has been naturally entangled with pastels for centuries. Since dancers’ hems were raised in the 19th century showing off legs and the new pointe shoe for the first time, powder pink tights have emphasized the shapeliness (read: sensuality) of feminine power and grace. Donna Karan’s nod to the workout studios of the 80s, Prada’s googie optimism, Christopher Kane’s blunt references, even Burberry’s lacy English Rose, holds a certain well-understood power. Cuts and lines of current pastels continue to imbue that power, albeit with a new meaning in 2016.
Pantone, the design world’s color authority, announced for the first time a duo of colors to represent this year. Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director at Pantone, says “Joined together, Rose Quartz (baby pink) and Serenity (powder blue) demonstrate an inherent balance between a warm, embracing rose tone and the cooler tranquil blue, reflecting connection and wellness as well as a soothing sense of order and peace.” Unfortunately, the 2016 news cycle has shown anything but order and peace. Perhaps that’s why we look for it in fashion.