Burberry twists the classics
‘Burberry is given the Daniel Lee treatment this season. The designer's anticipated debut collection for the British label sees iconic trench coats sliced to shorter lengths and the unmistakable check enlarged in a two-tone colorway. Experimentation is a risk that pays off.’
Ferragamo brings quiet sophistication
'Maximilian Davis’ subtle tweaks at Ferragamo create the best versions of everyday pieces. Double-layered ribbed knits and slimline velvet trousers — printed to look like jeans — bring sharp polish and a new nod to quiet luxury. Italian always, lace-up leather shoes with statement soles complete the look.’
Amiri ramps up retro
‘Hip-hop legend DJ Premier soundtracked Amiri’s fall/winter 2023 show. He also formed the inspiration for the collection, where codes of the 1990s were reimagined through a 1970s lens. Think: rich brown palettes, patterned polos layered over oversized shirts, wide-leg pants and faux-fur overcoats.’
Jil Sander masters smart utility
‘A tale of two halves, sporty, utilitarian silhouettes and slick tailoring define Luke and Lucie Meier’s work for Jil Sander. Playing with proportions through funnel-neck windbreakers and exaggerated shoulders on overcoats, the contrast of nylon versus wool proves that sartorial opposites attract.’