Pulling off a kaftan everywhere from the beach to the boardroom has become significantly easier now that the item has been elevated from its status as a swimsuit cover-up.
Worn in Africa, the Middle East and Southeast Asia for centuries, these long-sleeved tunics were first popularised in the West by Yves Saint Laurent, who was photographed lounging in one at the Garden Majorelle in Marrakesh. The French couturier brought a certain glamour to summer kaftans he later produced for YSL, transforming the traditional dress into a contemporary choice for relaxed gatherings.
The kaftan evokes the mystical glamour of the 60s and 70s. Due to its association with exotic lands, it brings to mind an atmosphere of travel, adventure and relaxation, as typified by photographer Patrick Lichfield’s renowned shot of Dutch actress Talitha Getty. In the image, the kaftan enthusiast sits with her head against a wall, a luxuriously patterned silk tunic draped over her body and a sprawling Moroccan city behind her.
Jacqueline Bisset also displayed how to wear a kaftan with expertise. Captured by photographer Harry Benson in the ‘60s, the English actress accessorised her understated striped cotton dress with a simple pixie haircut and a flick of black eyeliner.
Modern style icons such as oft-photographed fashion buyer Yasmin Sewell and socialite and model Poppy Delevingne are embracing the kaftan trend anew. The latter proved the oversized tunic is appropriate for autumn as well as summer when she opted for a sheer and colourful Chanel kaftan at the fashion house’s celebratory dinner in New York, October 2015.
Classic cover-up
Just because the kaftan works off the beach doesn’t mean a holiday setting isn’t still a natural fit. Talitha tunics draw on the inspiration of their namesake, keeping the iconic item classic with Moroccan-style prints, tassels and pompoms.
The kaftan works hard for its place in your suitcase, transitioning from poolside cover-up to cocktail dress – and even an upscale dinner ensemble – with ease. It can be worn barefoot to protect from the sun’s rays during the day before transforming into a luxe outfit, albeit with a bohemian spin, come evening. A pair of Dolce & Gabbana Sicilian-influenced sandals from the label's poppy-laden SS16 collection will add extra colour.
Desk-side dressing
Wearing a kaftan to the office is an inspired way to infuse workwear with a subtle seaside spirit, both in the warmer and cooler months.
For seasons spent commuting in the city rather than sprawled out on the sand in Santorini, look to Ann Demeulemeester tunics and kaftans. In lightweight fabrics and loose fits, these soft and sheer items are ideal for sweltering summers. The subtle abstract botanical prints ensure the garments deviate from the kaftan's typically girlish overtones, with monochrome hues providing a grown-up edge.
Layering an Ann Demeulemeester kaftan over a crisp white undershirt and pairing with Marni two-tone loafers offsets the flowing fabric and provides a quirky but lavish aesthetic. During autumn and winter, the addition of thick ribbed stockings from Cédric Charlier and a polo neck underneath creates an alternative to classic winter woollens and plaid.
Urban tunics
For dinner or drinks after work, pulling off a kaftan becomes even more enjoyable with the unapologetically bold colours, luscious embellishments and multi-tonal tribal patterns of Australian designer Camilla.
Rihanna embraced a similar aesthetic to the travel-inspired label's all-over print in June 2016 when she wore a bright Dolce & Gabbana maxi kaftan at a dinner with supermodel Naomi Campbell in New York. A colourful tunic in the same style as the Anti singer is an effortless dinner-date outfit, especially when finished off with a bold boot and slicked-back hair.
For an understated evening ensemble, achieve a modern effect with Fendi silky colour-block and geometric-print tunics. When cinched at the waist with an understated brown leather belt or teamed with flat ankle-tie suede sandals at a casual garden party, the Italian fashion house’s kaftans make an indomitable impact.
Party perfect
Opulent floor-length kaftans from Oscar de la Renta, which appear regularly in the designer’s Spring/Summer collections, capture the detail and extravagance of his sought-after gowns.
While not always an intuitive choice as evening apparel, de la Renta proves that pulling off a kaftan can be just as glamorous as a red-carpet-skimming dress. With vibrant colours, intricate embroidery and shiny finishes, his kaftans work best paired with block-heel sandals and a sun-kissed St Tropez glow.