trends & subculturesFriday, January 21, 2022

2022’s Capsule Outerwear Closet

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WORDS BY ASHLEIGH GRIBBON

 

Some pieces have true staying power. Who can question the endurance of the trench coat, trusty padded jacket or polished blazer? The common thread between genuine outerwear classics lies in their ability to transcend seasons, remaining as relevant in three seasons' time as they will during an adrenaline-charged runway moment. 


So what constitutes an essential transeasonal jacket, and what should you know before investing? Our senior menswear editor, Luke Raymond, explains what’s important when you need a style that goes with everything, and picks the key new-season pieces courtesy of the world’s greatest selection of designers. Read more and shop the highlights below.

 

The modern trench

 

Loved for its ability to make transitional dressing a breeze, the iconic trench will forever be considered a classic. And while more traditional takes on the outerwear favorite will always be a go-to — Burberry’s Kensington and Waterloo Heritage trench coats will always be a key callout in this space — it’s also worth considering the season’s most exciting names, who are reenergizing the style with artisanal flavour. ‘You can count on Bottega Veneta to lend an expressionist lens to the timeless trench,’ notes Luke Raymond. ‘Accented with contrast stitching in the house’s signature mid-green color — the tone of the season — the label’s high-gloss trench is a smart investment for those who value interesting details and wearability in equal measure.’

 

The padded longline coat

 

'This season sees padded longline coats step in as the elevated alternative to cropped designs,’ says Raymond on the outerwear piece that’s expected to be a wardrobe mainstay. ‘Jil Sander’s Luke and Lucie Meier are masters when it comes to enduring yet forward-thinking wardrobe classics. Here, they offer up a subtle metallic longline that will transcend seasons and is an easy-to-style finishing touch. Complete with a detachable collar detail, it’s the perfect piece for a man with minimalist tendencies that values perenniality first and foremost.’ Other equally as interesting alternatives include a utilitarian-inspired option from Off-White, YMC’s streamlined Jocks coat and Undercover’s taupe-grey iteration from the label’s collaboration with Markus Akesson, complete with a painterly print from the Swedish artist.

 

The versatile shacket

 

Designed to dress the in-between, the shirt-jacket hybrid bridges those unpredictable weather gaps in the year, making it an invaluable piece all year round. ‘Consider pared-back cuts in neutral tones your go-to if you’re looking to invest in a shacket,’ says Raymond. ‘The shacket should be a layering tool that can slot seamlessly into your pre-existing closet, so opting for a versatile color is a smart choice.’ The key things to note when choosing a piece that will transcend seasons? Understated silhouettes in unexpected fabrications. This season’s highlights come courtesy of A-COLD-WALL*, progressive Belgian label Namacheko, and There Was One, a new brand shaped by elevated wardrobe essentials — available to shop exclusively on FARFETCH.

 

The statement puffer

 

While the puffer jacket will always be underpinned by practicality thanks to its thermal qualities, it gets an overhaul this season via impactful cuts, punchy shades and bold prints. Consider a less-is-more approach to statement details by honing in on either color, cut or pattern; a styling note that hits the sweet spot between being expressive and adaptable. ‘Rick Owens applies his typically experimental hand to highly structured quilting and tactile contrasts,’ says Raymond on the designer’s new all-black, high-gloss design. ‘By mixing up fabrics you can easily achieve a really contrast-rich textural look too. Alternatively, AGR — a rising brand famed for its heady colors and patterns — reenergizes this sportswear classic with its signature high-octane hues.’

 

The simplified blazer

 

Elevated, purposeful and decidedly grown-up, the blazer is quickly settling into its status as one of the cornerstones of the modern menswear closet. When scoping out an investment piece that works with your capsule wardrobe season after season, hone your search in on pared-back styles that boast endless versatility. ‘Take a buy-less, buy-better approach to your next outerwear purchase with hard-working layers that lend themselves to numerous occasions,’ says Raymond. ‘A minimalist longline blazer is a smart choice that will see you through the back-to-work transition seamlessly, from an early morning coffee meeting to hosting a virtual presentation where loungewear feels too casual. Post-work, it’s a fail-safe styling solution for dinner and drinks.’ Some of this season’s strongest offerings come from Off-White, Jacquemus and Bottega Veneta.

 

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