Carol Lim and Humberto Leon and Kenzo A/W 12
designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were the surprise appointment of last year, when they took the creative reigns of the Japanese label founded by the flamboyant Kenzo Takada in 1970, with their modern, urban aesthetic an in contrast to the house’s signature whimsical style. So far, the pair have more than pulled off their task, but now they’ve had a few seasons to bed in, this show for Spring/Summer 13 should really start to cement the direction in which they’re taking the label. So we’ll be looking out to see if this menswear collection establishes a consistency with what they’ve done before.
At Dior Homme
Kris Van Assche and Dior Homme S/S 12
became one of the world’s most coveted brands in the mid Noughties, under the direction of Hedi Slimane, who gave the label its signature dark, slim silhouette. So current designer Kris Van Assche
has always had a hard act to follow. And now, with Slimane right back in the spotlight, and everyone’s minds with his new post at Yves Saint Laurent
(or should that be Saint Laurent Paris, are we calling it that yet?), Van Assche is probably feeling the need to assert himself more than ever. Will the collection, to be shown on Saturday, be one that suitably reassures everyone that he is a worthy successor?
At Louis Vuitton
Kim Jones and Louis Vuitton A/W 12
Kim Jones has been one of London’s brightest menswear talents for the best part of a decade, but it’s taken a huge global platform, in thise case luxury juggernaugt Louis Vuitton, to really let him fufill his potential. His Autumn/Winter 12 collection was a huge critical success, with a cultured and contemporary approach to suits and separates. He’s set the bar very high for Spring/Summer 13, but we have a feeling he’s going to keep on pushing for glory.
Jonny Johansson and Acne S/S 12
Cool, modern and thoroughly Scandinavian, Acne
sort of feels like a strange fit for Paris – the most traditional of all the Fashion Weeks. Jonny Johansson’s Swedish label is, with its clean lines, architectural construction and directional touches, rapidly becoming one of the industry’s most notable brands. Does this new prominence on the French schedule a statement of intent? And is this latest show going to establish it as a bonafide big hitter? We do hope so.
At Damir Doma
opened his first Paris store this year – a marker of just how successful the young Croatian born designer is becoming. His elegant use of drapery, dramatic silhouettes and favouring of gloomy palettes have put him firmly in the dark, gothic-tinged high fashion category alongside Ann Demeulemeester
and Rick Owens
. Yet his last show saw Doma go off in a more experimental, ethnic direction, so what we’re interested to find out at his show on Saturday is whether he’s gone further down this new direction, or reverted back to his established formula.