WORDS BY JOSEPH FURNESS
Japan has long been the spiritual home of avante-garde streetwear, but now its menswear scene is evolving - at bullet train speeds. From tailored tracksuits by Needles to the raw-edged aesthetic of Mastermind Japan, the most exciting Japanese brands are artfully combining form with function and traditional tailoring with contemporary sportswear. Here are five of Japan’s best menswear brands to have on your radar for Autumn Winter 2018:
Needles
Part of the Nepenthes brand collective (the holy grail for streetwear connoisseurs), Needles is the younger sibling of cult label, Engineered Garments. Drawing inspiration from Americana, military wear and Japanese textiles, the brand’s designer Keizo Shimizu aims to reinvent the uniform for the 21st century. A signature look? Deconstructed tracksuits that blend structured pleats with sporty side stripes.
Shop the look: Needles embroidered zipped sweatshirt | Needles Leopard Print Jacket
Undercover
Since the mid-90s, Jun Takahashi’s Undercover has been revered for interweaving punk influences and millennial style. As well a high profile running-wear collaboration with NikeLab’s Gyakusou line, Undercover collections are known for their witty graphics, bold stripes and moody colour palettes.
Shop the look: Undercover Belted Check Coat | Undercover Grosgain Tapered Trousers
Mastermind Japan
Once a well-kept secret of Japanese streetwear subculture, Mastermind Japan was only recognisable by its iconic skull-and-crossbones motif. The brand has since spread to the West and found a new audience via major collaborations with the likes of Adidas, Vans and Anti Social Social Club. Next stop, world domination.
Shop the look: Mastermind Printed Sweatshirt | Mastermind Camouflage Sweatshirt
Hysteric Glamour
Leopard print, studs and bold slogans: Hysteric Glamour definitely isn’t for wallflowers. Fusing traditional craftsmanship and innovative techniques, the anarchic Japanese brand draws inspiration from the spirit of 1960s and 1970s America: rock music, pop art and mass media. The result? Rebellious clothes and accessories made for non-conformists.
Shop the look: Hysteric Glamour Logo Patch T-Shirt | Hysteric Glamour Zipped Backpack
Facetasm
The unruly middle child of the Japanese menswear scene, Facetasm’s unpredictable nature has earned the Tokyo-based brand a die-hard following. Founder and head designer Hiromichi Ochiai is one of fashion’s great free thinkers, devising cerebral twists on staple menswear pieces. Influenced by sports and utilitywear, Facetasm’s signatures include oversized silhouettes, bold logos and innovative fabrication.
Shop the look: Facetasm Loose Fit T-Shirt | Facetasm Side Stripe Wide Leg Jeans
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