Maison Margiela presents the icons
From the ‘work in progress’ technique to décortiqué finishes, Maison Margiela’s new Icons collection spotlights the label’s most celebrated and perennial design codes. Styled here by Elizabeth Fraser-Bell (@elizabethfraserbell), the edit focuses on forever pieces and signature details, shaped by creative director John Galliano’s progressive vision. Take a first look at the new arrivals as Fraser-Bell shares her personal highlights — plus shop the exclusive accessories capsule, only available on FARFETCH.
A construction technique that speaks to the mastery of John Galliano’s design vision, the décortiqué concept was introduced in the designer’s debut ready‐to‐wear show for the house in 2015. It plays to the idea of revealing the skeletal structure of a piece; subtly seen here at the collar and pocket. ‘I enjoy how a classic trench is redefined here,’ says Fraser-Bell. ‘Its meticulous construction results in both beautiful proportions and interesting details.’
Avant-garde tailoring is Maison Margiela’s forte. Here, the brand reenergizes the timeless box-pleat skirt with its revered ‘anonymity of the lining’ technique — an approach that involves turning the lining of a piece into a visible design element — to reveal striped culottes at the back. ‘I love that this work-in-progress sensibility not only offers satisfying tactility but also a rare glimpse into a couturier’s process,’ notes Fraser-Bell.
This technique takes its cue from a matelassé style of hand-stitched quilting that made its debut on the spring/summer 2018 catwalk in the form of the now much-loved Glam Slam bag. Brought to life here in a double-breasted coat made from recycled nylon, the finish speaks to Maison Margiela’s notion of unconscious glamour and preference for comfort. ‘This full-length coat offers the perfect repurposing of the iconic Glam Slam bag technique,’ explains Fraser-Bell. ‘Here, it’s paired with knee-high painted Tabis and a queen-style headscarf.’
Fusing fabrics to give pieces a second life is Maison Margiela’s forte. This Fair Isle cardigan is spliced with a deconstructed Tattersall-wool knit through a technique that exposes design details, revealing intricate elements of the dressmaking process — seen here in the visible darts and seams.
The exclusive accessories capsule
Since the spring 1989 collection — where models marched down the runway in Tabi boots drenched in red paint, leaving a trail of footprints — the DIY paint print and split-toe Tabi have become house icons. In an exclusive capsule available to shop only on FARFETCH, Maison Margiela reimagines this moment in the form of a white handprint that adorns the most sought-after accessories, alongside shoes and bags finished in the signature Bianchetto paint treatment.