Trending now: skin barrier essentials
Barrier repair is more than just a passing beauty buzzword. When the outermost layer of your skin — comprised of skin cells, lipids and the microbiome — is impaired by over-exfoliation or medical conditions like eczema, it struggles to function properly and retain hydration. The result? ‘Tight, shiny skin, increased breakouts, dryness and sensitivity,’ says Margaret de Heinrich de Omorovicza, co-founder of skincare brand Omorovicza. Luckily, we’ve created an expert-approved guide to the ingredients, formulas and products that will replenish your skin this season.
The first step in healing your moisture barrier is to handle your skin with care at every step in your routine. Amy Peterson — a medical aesthetician and founder of the Miami medispa Skincare by Amy Peterson — advises beginning with cleansers: ‘Seek products that include reparative ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, glycerin, sodium PCA and urea.’ Opt for cream or oil-based formulations which are designed to ‘cleanse without stripping or further drying out the skin,’ Peterson says.
Serums are formulated to target specific skin concerns by penetrating deep into the skin, so now is the time to steer clear of products containing retinoids or exfoliating acids such as AHAs and BHAs. Margaret de Heinrich de Omorovicza suggests gentle formulations instead, to ’replenish the skin with nourishing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, fatty acids and niacinamide.’
According to Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, founder and medical director of Adonia Medical Clinic, the right moisturizer should include a combination of the following: ‘Humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin to pull moisture into the skin, emollients such as ceramides to help improve its hydration, and occlusives such as petrolatum, shea butter and squalene to sit above the skin and lock in all the moisture.’