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Farfetch Finds

 

Meet the five most innovative labels you need to know about

 

Words by Ryan Thompson, Photography by Paul McLean, Styling by Tony Cook

 

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Amongst the noise of fashion’s big brands, it can be all too easy to miss the fresh, undiscovered designers. So if you like to zig when the crowd zags, we’ve sought out 5 of the most exciting menswear labels that more than deserve your attention.

 

 

 

Delada

For all its frozen tundra, Russia couldn’t be hotter in fashion right now, with the likes of Gosha Rubchinskiy reimagining the vision of a nation’s youth. But one brand flying under the radar is Delada, whose London-based founder Lada Komarova draws inspiration from her Moscow childhood, with collections influenced by memories of bygone times in Russia.

Describe your brand in three words
‘Nostalgic, deconstructed, playful.’

What does innovation mean to you?
‘It means taking existing styles, deconstructing them and flexibly allowing a wearer to reassemble elements in new innovative ways, creating endless variations of new styles.’

What inspired your AW17 collection?
‘Memories of the “Babushkin Sunduk” or Grandma's trunk - the traditional trunk filled with inheritance knick-knacks in every Russian household. Dressing up with everything that could be found in the trunk was a favourite activity for many Russian girls and boys.’

What are the key pieces?
‘The buttoned-back double-breasted coat, the blazer with detachable cotton sleeves and the layered sleeves accessory. All these styles represent the playfulness of being able to mix and match elements of different clothes and styles to suit each wearer’s own mood and personality.’

Coat, Blazer, Shirt and Trousers all by Delada from L’Eclaireur

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Moohong

Seoul-based designer Moohong Kim is fast developing a reputation among fashion’s inner circle - for creating innovative menswear that plays with volume and cut in a distinctly modern way. Kim’s eponymous label is a must-have for fans of streetwear with an dynamic tailoring bias. Outstanding pieces for standout people.

Describe your brand in three words
‘Counter-intuitive, androgynous.’

What does innovation mean to you?
‘Innovation is the process of endless counter-intuitive thinking and the effort to create added value in everything I do.’

 

If you could be reborn as another creative, who would it be?
‘Perhaps I would be a writer. A passionate writer or a poet in the 19th century. They seemed to live every inch of their craft. Their writing was their life. There is something very noble and romantic about it.’

What are the key pieces for AW17?
‘For me, the most important pieces are an asymmetric bomber jacket and an attached layered trouser. I would wear the trousers with a fitted hoodie or a shirt, while the bomber jacket is an extremely versatile piece and works with all kinds of trousers.’

Blazer, Shirt, Trousers All by Moohong from L’Eclaireur. shoes by Trickers from Browns.

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What inspired your AW17 collection?
‘The Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki. He explores pornography, fetishism and sexualising non-sexual objects in his work. Playing closely to the inspiration of Araki’s imagery, we reinterpreted fetishism in our own unique way with hardware such as chains, eyelets and straps. This seamlessly crosses over into motocross-cum-outback Australiana, in the use of the moto-themed detailing and styling cues.’

All clothing by Strateas Carlucci.

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Coohem

Named after 'Kouhen', an intricate Japanese knitting technique, premium knitwear label Coohem was founded in 2010. And this season, founder Ken Oe maintains his brand’s vintage focus with modern interpretations of Aran and Fair Isle knits, together with colour-flecked tweed blazers that will completely lift your tailoring options this season.

Describe your brand in three words
‘Capability of knitwear.’

What does innovation mean to you?
‘To make things that no one else is making, to challenge what is believed to be impossible.’’

 

What inspired your AW17 collection?
‘Our theme for AW17 is “Wardrobe of life” - we create clothing designed to be lived in.’

What are the key pieces?
‘We really love the houndstooth pattern, which you can find in an unstructured tweed blazer and a feather-down vest. It’s a classic houndstooth that has been flecked with colour for a more contemporary and wearable look to keep you warm in the winter.’

Jacket and Coat by Coohem from Coohem. Shorts by Rick Owens, from L’Eclaireur. Boots by Lost & Found Ria Dunn.

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If you could be reborn as another creative, who would it be?
‘I would be a painter, or a photographer. It was a painter who inspired my AW17 collection - the Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. It was not only her powerful paintings that were the catalyst, but I was similarly struck by the magnitude of her short - yet intense - life.’

Coat by Uma Wang from L’Eclaireur. Blazer by Uma Wang from O’from L’Eclaireur. Shirt by Uma Wang from Stefania Mode. Trouser(sold out) by Uma Wang from L’Eclaireur. Boots by Marsell from Bernardelli.

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