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The alternative diamond guide
Black, grey and champagne shades, unique piercings and reworked cuts: jewellers are giving diamonds a modernist slant. From unique, talking-point pieces to the designers pushing the boundaries, these are the diamonds we’re excited about now.
Grey, champagne and black diamonds have emerged as a compelling alternative to more classic styles. The LA-based, demi-fine designer Jennie Kwon often embellishes her delicate designs with coloured diamonds – from slightly grey, yellowish and speckled, the delicate settings emphasize the inclusions in the diamonds. Loree Rodkin’s eponymous brand and her collaboration with Michele Lamy for Hunrod feature more subversive designs that incorporate coloured diamonds. Most are naturally included and traditionally flawed. But that’s where the beauty lies.
Once considered too difficult to produce, pierced diamonds are still not widely available. They’re championed by Raphaele Canot – a diamond expert in her own right – and Delfina Delettrez, with her ‘Pierced’ collection. Raphaele drilled high-quality, brilliant and classic-cut diamonds, so they were set floating from a light jump ring, which offers maximum light refraction.
Baguette diamonds are making a comeback. Founded by LA-based, mother-and-daughter duo Ladan and Tania Shayan, SHAY is the go-to brand for the cool girl looking for statement pieces. The label’s signatures: chokers, ear cuffs, XL hoops, signet rings and chunky gold chains. Retro in all the right ways.
For fancy-cut diamonds, look to Anita Ko, Zoe Chicco and Eva Fehren. Anita works with both small and large diamonds in varying cuts – from baguettes and trillions, to marquise and emeralds. And with Zoe’s handmade 14kt gold designers, you can expect super-bright diamonds in oval, baguette, teardrop, marquise, kite and trillion cuts. At Eva Fehren, designer duo Eva Zuckerman and Ann Gorga mix diamonds with strong geometric forms and architectural elements, inspired by New York’s landscape, resulting in collections that are clean, contemporary and perfect for every day.
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