New Season New Designers
So the long wait is over and Autumn/Winter 12 is now upon us, and we can resume furiously planning which must have pieces we will and won’t be investing in. But each season not only brings to the fore new pieces, but also new designers, the names that we’ll all be putting on our watch-list. Watching new talent emerge has always been one of the most thrilling parts of fashion (the intrigue of an aesthetic you’ve never seen, the pride that comes with picking up on one right before their career goes stellar) so we’ve rounded up our top tips for the next six months or so (and we’re not the only ones, four of the labels on our list – Suno, Tabitha Simmons, A.L.C and The Elder Statesman have all been shortlisted for the prestigious Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund prize). Meet the class of A/W 12…
Founded in 2008 by Max Osterweis and his collaborator Erin Beatty, Suno is based in New York but took its inaugural S/S 09 show’s inspiration from Kenya, second home to Osterweis, and the place from which he sourced the collection of vintage textiles he has been building up for years.
Subsequent collections have continued this global theme, with production taking place in far-flung locations such as India and Peru, with the brand mixing local techniques with top-end tailoring for an aesthetic of high fashion with an ethnic twist. With an emphasis on prints – clashing and complimentary, bold and discreet, the over-riding look is one of perfectly cut silhouettes juxtaposed with a medley of layers and textures. .
Suno's Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty and a Suno piece on farfetch.com
The Elder Statesman
The Elder Statesman A/W 12
Cashmere is the key to Californian knitwear label The Elder Statesman, helmed by Greg Chait, formerly of Ksubi fame. Born from Chait’s love of the cosiness of blankets, his label’s aim is turn the luxurious wool into something strong and masculine, whilst retaining the delicate, tactile quality that makes it so desirable.
With a line of athletic yet smart knits, and colourful cashmere accessories that benefit from the fact the material has been hand-made in exotic places like Mongolia and the camps of Navaho Indians, the label has already been able to spawn one must-have piece, the ‘Baja’ sweater.
The Elder Statesman's Greg Chait and a The Elder Statesman piece on farfetch.com
Shoes from Tabitha Simmons' eponymous line
A British born stylist and contributor to Vogue, Dazed and Confused and Another magazine, Tabitha Simmons holds this job down at the same time as running her eponymous shoe label. The story began three years ago, when Simmons drew on her experience of working with the likes of Alexander McQueen and Marchesa to produce a line of skyscraper heels that feature lots of cut-outs, laces and other such details that dial the sexy level up to maximum.
The strappy sandals and razor sharp courts have since been seen on many a red-carpet but Simmons maintains that part of the appeal of her ultra-feminine styles is in the intimacy of the label, which she sometimes shows in her New York home.
Tabitha Simmons and a Tabitha Simmons shoe on farfetch.com
Charles Anastsase A/W 12
A French designer whose sartorial sense of adventure led him to London, since launching his self-named line in 2005 Charles Anastase has injected some of the English city’s signature experimentation into his traditional Parisian chic.
Previously a stylist and illustrator for publications such as Dazed and Confused and Purple, Anastase has spent the last seven years establishing a smart, girlish aesthetic with a cheeky twist, with his collections heavy on high hem-lines, pretty Peter Pan collars, and rich jewel tones.
Charles Anastase in his studio and a Charles Anastase blouse on farfetch.com
A.L.C A/W 12
New York native and former stylist to the A-list (Gwen Stefani, Cameron Diaz and Jennifer Lopez being one-time clients) Andrea Lieberman founded A.L.C in 2009, aiming to update and improve upon classic wardrobe staples.
With a clean, modern approach to design, Lieberman’s line focuses on the likes of skinny trousers, sharp blazers, shirt dresses and neat little sweaters that highlight timeless cuts and the important of investment pieces, whilst adding a touch of whimsy and fun with splashes of pretty prints and pops of colour.
A.L.C's Andrea Lieberman and an A.L.C sweater on farfetch.com