New York's Licoln Centre in full-on fashion mode
Day 1 wasn’t too crazy, at 9am I headed to Ruffian – which was a label I didn’t know too much about, but that impressed me with its playful femininity, and androgyny at the same time, quite a mean feat to manage! Inspired by the style of Prince Edward VII in the late nineteenth century, and his request for ‘more comfortable dinner attire’, this season Ruffian offered up reworked tuxedos in endless incarnations – some were very rock’n’roll. Cropped black patent leather coats, cream double-breasted velvet blazers, severe pencil skirts and black satin jackets with matching stretch duchess satin trousers sporting a high 70s waistline all followed suit – often with dramatic Victorian ruff-collars in tow.
Next up was Peter Som, which was pretty-as-a-picture, but with some slightly ‘off’ touches – like chunky coats and cardigans that took the collection down a few notches, making it youthful and accessible.
The catwalk at Peter Som
Jason Wu was all about palatial opulence this season, his collection was inspired, he said ‘by the restoration of Versailles’. Models walked over a reflective catwalk, made up of gilded-framed mirrors, with oversize chandeliers dotted around the space. Pretty chi-chi stuff! Dresses, shirts and over-coats featured lace detailing, embellishment and chunks of crystals – even the back of models hair had clumps of gold attached to it.
The catwalk at Jason Wu
Last show of the day (for me), Rag&Bone, followed, and they proved again this season that they can do a lot more than re-hash wardrobe basics, which was how they originally made a name for themselves. The collection was fashion-forward but still accessible – colours were bold and bright, I was in love with the vivid blues, reds and oranges, and I died over the adorable bright blue overcoat… As you can tell, I’m a sucker for blue (my name is Indigo after-all!).
It was an early 10am start – I mean it’s Saturday! Surely we should be able to sleep in till midday! Anyway, the show was Edun – Bono and his wife’s ethical, environmentally produced line that fell into obscurity and was last year invested in by LVMH, taking the brand back into the mainstream. The presentation was held in a massive, very dark warehouse space, where the audience was literally tripping over trying to get to their seats – the lights were off! Once the show started, it was all about Seventies silhouettes and gorgeous textures – cable-knit wool, leather and silk reigned. Colours were similarly Seventies themed – earthy and autumnal. All went off without a hitch until a model lost her heel!
The catwalk at Edun
Next up was Vivienne Tam, which was all a bit practical and red, black and gold. It just got a bit much watching an entire collection modeled by girls wearing black tights… It’s bad enough I have to do that every day – oh the monotony of Winter!
Backstage at Vivienne Tam
Afterwards, it was Alexander Wang at his usual – thoroughly gigantic – venue at Pier 94, and his collection was exciting, and a real turnaround from last season. The show appeared as an industrial future-disco. The floor, illuminated in a sequence of light-up squares, discoteque-style, saw models stepping haphazardly in sexy-cyber ski-bunny looks, statement oversized parka-poncho and bomber-biker hybrids – which have been a huge trend on the catwalk for Winter 11 (even at Altuzarra!) and elongated and sheer re-workings of the classic tuxedo dress-shirt and aviator-cum-mourning coat.
The catwalk at Alexander Wang
After Wang I hotfooted it to Erin Fetherston –whose Winter vision was pre-Raphaelite; black, gold and blush draping andgeneral prettiness –then came the best show of the day– Altuzarra! The Erin Fetherston Show
Describing his new collection as “combining the nonchalance and rebellious spirit of the Nineties”, motorbike jackets were reworked and deconstructed, zippers and superfluous elongated straps were rife throughout, and the subdued palette of principally charcoal, black and burgundy was broken up with a classic argyle print. Altuzarra has fast become one of my favourite New York designers, I am always so excited to see what he comes up with next – like Christopher Kane, his aesthetic is always dramatically changing!The catwalk at Joseph Altuzarra