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LFW: Emilio De La Morena, Aminaka Wilmont and a rock-infused front row!








Emilio De La Morena 

In a venue like Somerset House, it's hard not feel part of something very special on this first day of London Fashion Week. So I head down to the tent where Hedonism show is held and with one glass of champagne in hand (yes I know it's 10.30am don't judge me!) I'm watching the unveiling of the emerging London milliners' most amazing pieces - it's like Alice in Wonderland going to Ascot!

After the show we even heard a speech from our Mayor Boris Johnson praising the fashion capital for its “originality and innovation”. When I got to Emilio De la Morena show I was so happy to discover the silk crepe cocktail dresses in beautiful hues of nude and lilac accessorized with thin studded belts - I want! I want! Couldn't help but congratulate the man backstage where I ran into my good friend Brylie Fowler, Editor-in-chief of Plastique Magazine sporting the most amazing Alexander Wang shoes - Courtesy of Feathers of course! I'm definitely working on getting better pictures and thank you Suzie Bubble for pointing at the notes on the wall backstage, commenting “that's quite funny why don't you take that?!”. After an agitated cab ride where the driver had no clue where he was going, Brylie and I just made it to Sass & Bide, a few seats away from Alison Mosshart and Kimberley Stewart.

I knew I had to go home perfecting my photographic skills (or learning should I say!) when the lovely Garance Dore and Scott Schuman told me nicely that actually I need to use my flash!! I ended the evening with the Aminaka Wilmont show, where the amazing prints were inspired by empty and abandoned buildings. How cool is that? No parties for me tonight I'm too tired. But tomorrow I'll be putting my heels on!

Violaine Bernard 

21-09-2009 11:52 # add your comment

SZ Series and Theatre de la Mode collection launches, no-one boutique

The FF team dropped by Shoreditch boutique no-one last night, to catch up with designers Rebecca Zehr and Anja Scaffner from SZ Series and Christopher Kelly with business partner Jonathan Franks for the launch of their respective collections. Beers flowed freely in the artful surroundings of the boutique-come-gallery-come-laid back bar space. Look out for their collections, online soon.

FF



  

 



 

 

18-09-2009 14:52 # add your comment
Category : News

London Fashion Week launches!

 

As we say goodbye to the New York runways, another week of shows kick starts at London Fashion Week, in its new central location - Somerset House. This year, the London leg of the international fashion circuit is celebrating its 25th birthday by welcoming the return of labels such as Antonio Berardi, Burburry and Jonathan Saunders to the London catwalks. The excitement began at 9am this morning, with collections arriving thick and fast plus a media scrum outside the gates, grabbing shots of models promoting the ‘The Love Fashion Hate Sweatshops’ campaign. Look out for more updates, direct from the runways over the next few days….

FF

18-09-2009 12:44 # add your comment

NY Fashion Week Day 7: Countdown to the end of NY Fashion Week, and the beginning of LDN

 
3.1 Phillip Lim


Alexandre Herchcovitch


Anna Sui

Day 7 was another early starter - and being a constant faffer means that is never a good thing. I made the Michael Kors show with a minute to spare - it was pretty conservative, save for some risqué clear PVC inserts exposing sections of flesh. Oscar de la Renta was amazing and glamorous, and invested Fashion Week with a much needed dose of romance - I spoke with mister Sartorialist Scott Schuman outside who was also a fan of "old school glamour".

Next up was Brazilian designer Alexandre Herchcovitch, who took football as the inspiration for a pretty wild collection of happily clashing colours, shapes, textures - incredibly different to the other shows this week, and brought to mind the fun times that must never end when you live in a rockin' city like Sao Paolo.  Phillip Lim sent out a pragmatic, eminently wearable collection for spring, proving his knack for accessible and saleable fashion - Lim is a designer at the top of his game right now, and despite the economy is expanding his business and reach - quite an achievement. Anna Sui, last show of the day for me, went to the circus for her SS10 collection of ‘60s mod and circus inspired youth-driven wares. Colours were pushed to the max, as were contrasting checks and pop floral prints - there were even some eccentric ringmaster jackets and hats thrown in for good measure.

Indigo Clarke

18-09-2009 11:53 # add your comment

Cocktail hour





Indigo paints the town...well, Indigo!

After too many days straight of covering NY fashion Week for both ELLEuk.com and SHOWstudio, I finally decided I had to have a drink immediately... ended up having quite a few and writing till 5am - amazingly enough, my best work yet! With some of my favourite peeps, Paul Bui the editor of Oyster Magazine (I'm editor at large), Alicia Polmanteer a girl about town in music promotions, and Mister Matty T, a very accomplished young shoe designer for S***R and b Store and an all round great guy. We hit quite a weird Reebok party with a shockingly bad gymnastics display, then went to the Dazed and AnOther party at the Jane Hotel which was totally fun, good times, great music. And I saw Bjork!

Indigo Clarke
18-09-2009 11:37 # add your comment

NY Fashion Week day 6: Mesmerising Rodarte


Rodarte

The highlight of fashion week had to be Rodarte's completely magical and mesmerising spectacle in Chelsea for SS10. Yellow lights and dry ice poured down onto the catwalk, with models walking in a zig-zag formation through the audience. Kirsten Dunst, Elijah Wood, Jason Schwartzman, Kim Gordon and Grace Coddington all sat up front while a menacing rock'n'roll sountrack set the mood, as incredible draped, braided, looped and woven tie and dip-dyed dresses and ensembles hit the catwalk - looking like tribal costumes from an alternate reality.

The Rodarte girl’s intimate after-party was very sweet, held in downtown Manhattan - I took the opportunity to tell Jason Schwartzman I was obsessed with his music, so cheesy but had to do it!

Indigo Clarke
18-09-2009 11:31 # add your comment

NY Fashion Week day 4: Derek Lam, Herve Leger, DKNY, Erin Featherston and more

 
Erin Featherston


Herve Leger

Day 4 of NY Fashion Week was crazy hectic - it involved running around to Derek Lam first thing in the morning, then onto DKNY, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Diane von Furstenberg, Erin Featherston and ending with Gareth Pugh's latest film screening in Chelsea's MILK Studios. Derek Lam showed an overtly wholesome and nostalgic collection of summery fun dresses, playsuits and separates in vivid hues, a very packed out studio space in West Village saw DKNY's latest offerings hit the catwalk - graphic, pop floral prints on wardrobe basics was the name of the game, and Herve Leger by Max Azria was rife with sexy, and technically complex, bandage dresses - which is to be expected - when you're onto a good thing, why push change?

Diane von Furstenberg took inspiration this season from Egypt, showing looks for spring dominated by gold, embellishments, animal print, flowing layers and intricately woven knitwear - all set against a vivid blue sky backdrop with Madonna's 'Erotic' setting the opening tone. Erin Featherston, a younger NY designer, was all about ‘70s femininity for the new season, with a collection realised in pink, pale blue, navy and black brimming with chiffon ruffles, satin bows, lace and gauzy sun hats. On each chair sat a pink carnation wrapped in a cream ribbon - Featherston said backstage she was "drawn to elements of glamour and drama," and by way of explaining her dramatic end to the collection (floor-sweeping chiffon gowns), "Who doesn't love a party dress?"

To wrap the day, I went to a screening of Gareth Pugh's fashion film in Chelsea - it was shown on four screen's simultaneously, and acted as a mood board for his upcoming collection to be shown in Paris, Pugh told me, rather than showcasing actual designs. After the screening, there was a rooftop party where it seemed everyone was from London - which was a nice change of pace, there was drinking and some crazy dancing all with an amazing view of the Hudson.

Indigo Clarke
16-09-2009 14:48 # add your comment

b Store presents its latest installation courtesy of artist Henry Mackay-Bull

  
  

Avant-garde London boutique b Store is always keen to support new and exciting talent in the realms of fashion, art and design and this week is no excpetion with the introduction of an exciting new installation from Goldsmiths graduate Henry Mackay-Bull. Following his graduation from a BA in Fine Art, Mackay-Bull is currently developing an art practice constituting of sculpture, installation, print, and film. He has exhibited in several group shows, including ‘Circuit Wisely’ and ‘Off Modern’. b Store invited Mackay-Bull into the Savile Row boutique to present his first solo show, entitled Figment 3, which explores sculptural forms – both organic and inorganic, diverging surface texture and a muted colour palette. London shoppers can see the instalation, in store now.

b Store, Savile Row, London, W1S 3PR

FF
15-09-2009 12:27 # add your comment
Category : News

no-one welcomes the new season with Theatre de la Mode and SZ Series

Rising stars Theatre de la Mode and SZ Series mark the launch of their AW09 collections at the no-one boutique in Shoreditch, London on Thursday 17th September. If you’re in the neighbourhood, head down to the boutique-come-exhibition-space at 1 Kingsland Road – they are even offering a recession-busting 20% off on the new collections.

Find out more at the no-one website.

FF
15-09-2009 10:31 # add your comment
Category : News

A rainy day in NYC predicts a hot summer for SS10

 
Alexander Wang

Despite the never-ending rain - which caused every single taxi in Manhattan to be occupied or 'off-duty' leaving me looking increasingly like a drowned rat as I shlepped to each show - today was a good fashion day. Karen Walker was the highlight - every single piece in the collection I wanted to own immediately. I had to hold myself back from leaping from 1st row onto the catwalk to nab an amazing navy trench with ruffles and gold buttons off a model. Karen Walker said post-show the collection was inspired by '60s British seaside town attire.

Alex Wang's show was, to be expected, the essence of downtown, understated cool - this season Wang took inspiration from football fields, his models wearing cropped raglan-sleeved sweatshirts, padded shoulders grid-iron style and knee high cut-out socks. Boy by Band of Outsiders presentation looked quite cool - an artificial beach landscape had been set up in doors featuring sand dunes, rocks and grass, with dozens of models standing around looking windswept and enviably summery - I'm missing the NYC summer that vanished less than a week ago! Ohne Titel's show was another highlight - Alexa and Flora said backstage that the collection was inspired by Ancient Egyptian clothing and forms, which translated into form-fitting dresses with graphic lines - the complex knitwear they have become known for, of course, proved the most striking of the collection for spring.

Indigo Clarke

14-09-2009 15:56 # add your comment

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Contributors


JESSIE WEISS, WRITER
Jessica Weiss is the voice behind Germany’s biggest fashion blog LesMads. Since it’s conception in 2007, Berlin based LesMads has won the prestigious ‘Lead Award’ for Best Weblog 2010. Jessica will be bringing us the latest in style news and her hot picks from farfetch.com.


TOM STUBBS, WRITER
Tom Stubbs is a stylist and writer who works for Sunday Times Style, The Rake, The Quarterly, FT How To Spend It, and Finch’s Quarterly. He also writes his own blog www.styleanderror.co.uk. Stubbs is our menswear fashion week correspondent.


INDIGO CLARKE, WRITER
Writer Indigo Clarke is Fashion Features Editor for Lula Magazine UK, Editor at Large for Oyster Magazine AUS, Contributing Features Editor for Russh Magazine AUS, Correspondent for Harper’s Bazaar AUS and also writes features for AnOther Magazine UK, Plastique Magazine UK and The Melbourne Age Newspaper. Reporting from the big apple, Indigo brings us the front row news as our New York Fashion Week correspondent.

VIOLAINE BERNARD, WRITER
Violaine is Fashion Editor of new quarterly style magazine Velour, each season she brings us the latest activity from London Fashion Week.

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