New York's Licoln Centre in full-on fashion mode

DAY 1
Day 1 wasn’t too crazy, at 9am I headed to Ruffian – which was a label I didn’t know too much about, but that impressed me with its playful femininity, and androgyny at the same time, quite a mean feat to manage! Inspired by the style of Prince Edward VII  in the late nineteenth century, and his request for ‘more comfortable dinner attire’, this season Ruffian offered up reworked tuxedos in endless incarnations – some were very rock’n’roll. Cropped black patent leather coats, cream double-breasted velvet blazers, severe pencil skirts and black satin jackets with matching stretch duchess satin trousers sporting a high 70s waistline all followed suit – often with dramatic Victorian ruff-collars in tow.
Next up was Peter Som, which was pretty-as-a-picture, but with some slightly ‘off’ touches – like chunky coats and cardigans that took the collection down a few notches, making it youthful and accessible.

The catwalk at Peter Som

Jason Wu was all about palatial opulence this season, his collection was inspired, he said ‘by the restoration of Versailles’. Models walked over a reflective catwalk, made up of gilded-framed mirrors, with oversize chandeliers dotted around the space. Pretty chi-chi stuff! Dresses, shirts and over-coats featured lace detailing, embellishment and chunks of crystals – even the back of models hair had clumps of gold attached to it.

The catwalk at Jason Wu

 Last show of the day (for me), Rag&Bone, followed, and they proved again this season that they can do a lot more than re-hash wardrobe basics, which was how they originally made a name for themselves. The collection was fashion-forward but still accessible – colours were bold and bright, I was in love with the vivid blues, reds and oranges, and I died over the adorable bright blue overcoat… As you can tell, I’m a sucker for blue (my name is Indigo after-all!).

DAY 2
It was an early 10am start – I mean it’s Saturday! Surely we should be able to sleep in till midday! Anyway, the show was Edun – Bono and his wife’s ethical, environmentally produced line that fell into obscurity and was last year invested in by LVMH, taking the brand back into the mainstream. The presentation was held in a massive, very dark warehouse space, where the audience was literally tripping over trying to get to their seats – the lights were off! Once the show started, it was all about Seventies silhouettes and gorgeous textures – cable-knit wool, leather and silk reigned. Colours were similarly Seventies themed – earthy and autumnal. All went off without a hitch until a model lost her heel!

The catwalk at Edun

 

Next up was Vivienne Tam, which was all a bit practical and red, black and gold. It just got a bit much watching an entire collection modeled by girls wearing black tights… It’s bad enough I have to do that every day – oh the monotony of Winter!

Backstage at Vivienne Tam

 Afterwards, it was Alexander Wang at his usual – thoroughly gigantic – venue at Pier 94, and his collection was exciting, and a real turnaround from last season. The show appeared as an industrial future-disco. The floor, illuminated in a sequence of light-up squares, discoteque-style, saw models stepping haphazardly in sexy-cyber ski-bunny looks, statement oversized parka-poncho and bomber-biker hybrids – which have been a huge trend on the catwalk for Winter 11 (even at Altuzarra!) and elongated and sheer re-workings of the classic tuxedo dress-shirt and aviator-cum-mourning coat.

The catwalk at Alexander Wang

After Wang I hotfooted it to Erin Fetherston –whose Winter vision was pre-Raphaelite; black, gold and blush draping andgeneral prettiness –then came the best show of the day– Altuzarra!

The Erin Fetherston Show


Describing his new collection as “combining the nonchalance and rebellious spirit of the Nineties”, motorbike jackets were reworked and deconstructed, zippers and superfluous elongated straps were rife throughout, and the subdued palette of principally charcoal, black and burgundy was broken up with a classic argyle print. Altuzarra has fast become one of my favourite New York designers, I am always so excited to see what he comes up with next – like Christopher Kane, his aesthetic is always dramatically changing!


The catwalk at Joseph Altuzarra

Category : Fashion Week-Round up

Paris Fashion Week may be drawing to a close, but the excitement for the collections is still far from fizzling out, buoyed on somewhat by the magnificent Vogue Paris 90th Anniversary Party, which provided still-hungry fashion bloggers with enough best and worst dressed fodder to keep them in swoons and snipey comments for weeks to come. 

But back to the shows, with powerhouses like Miu Miu and Chanel yet to show, this may come prematurely, but our fingers were just itching to get started on our favourites of the past few weeks. We present our top five shows of Spring/Summer 2011…

Hakaan

Showing in Paris for the first time (courtesy of his prestigious ANDAM award prize fund), and still flush from all the fawning his debut collection garnered last season in London, the pressure was on the Turkish designer to prove he was no one season wonder. Even with the security of his influential creative director Mert Alas (of all-powerful photography duo Mert and Marcus), and luminaries like Daria and Natalia on the catwalk, the stakes were high. Fortunately the ‘wow-factor’ was higher.

Hakaan’s collection was one large example of changing perceptions, the aesthetic was slick and restrained, a palette cleanser in a season proving big on Seventies excess. He also managed the considerable feat of making crop-tops and flesh-baring cut-outs racy without being obvious, sheer panels were geometric design features rather than suggestive, but still didn’t lose their feminine allure.  

Altuzarra

Continuing on with the glacial palette (an emerging trend for the upcoming season), rapidly rising French-born, American-based talent Joseph Altuzarra cemented his status as the one to watch with a collection that juxtaposed the grandest and most luxurious of materials with a thoroughly modern approach to shape and cut.

Pieces in thick duchesse satin and silky python skin featured some subtle nods to de-construction, but nothing that was exaggerated or directional enough to compromise the prettiness or body flattering qualities of the pieces. 

Cone shaped busts, and cut-away necklines would have given an almost tribal look to long dresses, were it not for the classic palette of white, ivory, black and navy, and instead had a glossy, high-octane Tom Ford-type sexiness.

Lanvin

Alber Elbaz may be walking around telling all and sundry that he is not a cool designer, and that Lanvin is not a cool brand, but the fact that one of his designs isn’t likely to turn up on some consciously subversive East London hipster as they launch their latest exhibition at an avant-garde gallery hardly dims the enduring brilliance of his Lanvin collections. 

Spring/Summer 11 was no exception, everything came with a typical layer of tasteful gloss, from billowing chiffon-skirted dresses with plunging necklines, to low-key suits paired with flats. 

True, a dramatic sweeping skirt the colour and size of a particularly intense sunset doesn’t exactly scream ‘cool’, but that hardly matters, it was eye-wateringly beautiful all the same. But it wasn’t all rainbow colours and candyfloss, dresses worthy of a gladiator, all pagan metal embellishments,  provided a hard edge that kept the show anchored firmly in reality, albeit a reality at the very pinnacle of the visual scale. 

Peter Pilotto

Always a reliable destination for a statement dress, the party-friendly pieces by Peter Pilotto and design partner Christopher De Vos usually have in common dazzling beadwork, marbled colours, and dramatic drapery. 

For Spring/Summer 2011 they’ve brushed those signature features aside in favour of experimenting with feather light cutaway skirts, pretty blouses and the unusual inspiration source of rock climbing. And like that hobby, it was something of a risk. Still, happily it seems to be one that has paid dividends. The use of parachute silk and rope-like scarves has an effect that is both delicate and dimensional, and whilst the graphic printed turtle-necks do have echoes of genuine active-wear, it is active-wear given the most impractical and gorgeous of make-overs.

Yves Saint Laurent

Rather than pushing forward, Stefano Pilati at YSL looked to the house’s iconic back catalogue for a collection that, perhaps in a nod to the Yves–dedicated exhibition that just ended a six-month stint in Paris, referenced some of the late designer’s most famous creations. 

And one by one Pilati certainly rolled out all the big guns. There were elegant Belle du Jour-esque blouses with prim collars, given a modern riff with the sheerest of fabrics, a safari dress pared down to its clean lines and simple shape, devoid of the plethora of accessories it was paired with first time around. There was billowing midnight-blue chiffon so representative of the heady, hedonistic disco days of Seventies Paris, and the finale cleverly fused two Saint Laurent staples, the chic ‘Le Smoking’, and the Moroccan style harem pants he found so appealing in the days when the exotic socialite Talitha Getty was his muse. 

Category : Fashion Week-Round up

The catwalk at Dolce and Gabbana

Milan Fashion Week got off to a typically glamorous start, and as usual, there were so many dazzling pieces to look at and exciting events going on, it was hard to find time just to sit back and take them in. 

One thing that was obvious immediately though, is that bold, bright colours look set to play a leading role in next season’s trends, particularly since they were a dominant presence at big hitters like Prada, Fendi and Gucci. 

Bold looks at Marni

This was certainly true at Marni, where Consuela Castiglioni sent out strong, vibrant shades. So elegantly cut were the pieces, that even in block colour, leather, or clashing prints, they looked effortlessly chic at all times.

The catwalk at Marni

Dolce and Gabbana chose to buck the trend, with a mainly monochrome collection. It was a characteristically sexy, smouldering show from the dynamic duo, splashes of print brightened up summery white pieces, though the real show-stoppers were the breath-taking Swarovski crystal-encrusted gowns that finished off the proceedings. 

Andrea Molteni.

Category : Fashion Week-Round up

The last day of LFW started with Marios Schwab, where lingerie inspired dresses were toughened up with leather harnesses, messy hair (or were they messy wigs?) and running make-up. This time around, it was Marios’ take on Nineties grunge which dominated the catwalk, but with a very feminine approach. 

Marios Schwab

 Heroin chic was left aside at Todd Lynn where his elongated warrior goddesses stomped down the catwalk with assurance. Snakeskin panels, sometimes in the form of a flap collar completed Lynn’s beautifully structured collection. 

Todd Lynn

Back to the Topshop Venue for the much anticipated Fashion East show. The editors are always excited to see which designers Lulu Kennedy has picked to represent the best of new talent. This season the line-up included Heikki Salonen, Felicity Brown and Simone (daughter of John) Rocha. My personal favorite had to be Felicity and her eye-candy ruffled cocktail numbers.

Felicity Brown

 My last show was Ashish, the king of sequins, and God did I have fun! His Rodeo Drive collection was made of heavy fringing, bandana prints and sequined cowboy shirts. What’s not to love? And his cowboy boots, a collaboration with Topshop, had ‘It shoes’ written all over them… And I never say ‘It shoes’!

Violaine Bernard.

Category : Fashion Week-Round up

Holly Fulton

Day 4 of Fashion Week was another early start at the Topshop venue with Peter Pilotto. Far away from their shield dresses, for S/S 11 Pilotto and de Vos were offering a grown-up yet fresh collection. The flapping panels at the back of some of the dresses were reminiscent of the 1970’s Saint-Laurent era where, according to Peter Pilotto ‘your silk scarf is elegantly flying in the air on the back of a convertible’.

Peter Pilotto

 I left the old Eurostar Terminal and made my way back to Somerset House to catch rising stars David Koma and Holly Fulton (ex-Fashion East hopeful) who were showing back to back (a LFW tradition). Koma’s ballerina inspired dresses with full, heavy skirts and skin-tight bodice had some sheer organza panels for a sassy effect, with python peplums added too. It was a different story altogether for Fulton’s glamorous Riviera collection. Her trademark graphic prints on Sixties shifts definitely had punch and the ‘Lauren Bacall cruising on a yacht’ hair complemented the looks perfectly. 

Mark Fast

At Mark Fast, figure-hugging, open stitched knit dresses were completed with some heavy fringes and I was happy to see some incandescent colors, particularly candy pink and flaming tangerine. I also liked that Fast ended the show with a bridal gown.

Mark Fast 

 

Roksanda Illincic’s Seventies inspired collection was airy and elegant in pure Roksanda style. Think sorbet colors and Loulou de la Falaise inspired headscarves for another echo to the Saint-Laurent heydays.

Roksanda Ilincic

 I couldn’t finish this day in a better mood after the Meadham Kirchhoff show. Those guys are geniuses! Some would argue than starting the show with a tape of an old Courtney Love interview wasn’t the best intro, but for me it was the a good way of putting the record straight. They embodied and revisited 90’s grunge with layers of luxurious chiffon, lace and detachable collars for a slightly odd, broken doll feel. You couldn’t help but feeling inspired. And I totally dig the Goth princess’ multicolored hair. 

Violaine Bernard.

Category : Fashion Week-Round up

Needless to say that the next morning was rather difficult… I pulled myself together to catch the Bernard Chandran show, also known as the Giorgio Armani of Malaysia, and not only did I enjoy his organza cocktail dresses, but he also brought Mr Hudson to DJ, even Tori Amos was tapping her heels.

 After my well-deserved bacon sandwich I made my way to Emilio de la Morena, which was definitely a highlight for me. It felt like LFW had finally started, and what a start! The colour combinations of hot pink, canary and aqua were genially refreshing after all the beige of last season (I think if I hear someone say “camel” one more time I’ll hit them with my Fashion Daily). The mix of textures such as suede, leather and perforated chiffon was inspiring.

Emilio de la Morena

 Next stop was the BodyAmr show, with his infamous draped gowns. Lily Allen was there supporting her mate Daisy Lowe who opened the show.

Daisy Lowe at BodyAmr

 Back to Somerset House where Osman's show was held. It was a very beautiful, clean collection, although maybe too reminiscent of the Celine mania last year.

Osman

John Rochas’ aesthetic always moves me and his S/S11 offering didn’t disappoint. But it was Charles Anastase’s Peter Pan collar and 60’s sweater dresses that made me finish the evening on a high. With a setting like a Parisian courtyard and Serge Gainsbourg blasting out, his leggy models walked down in pure Anastase style. When asked backstage who his inspiration was, he named Sixties icons like Francoise Hardy. Is Valentine Fillol Cordier, long-time friend and stylist, his muse? "Bien sur"he intoned. "She actually cut the models' hair to look like her…I think she already started a trend!" I went home dreaming of a shaggy fringed bob.

Charles Anastase

Day 3 started with digital print maestros Basso&Brooke in the sunny morning. The old maps and manuscript-inspired prints were surprisingly toned down but the floaty 70's dresses won my heart nonetheless. We then dropped by Somerset House's Portico Rooms to check out the Ann-Sofie Back intimate catwalk presentation with its Hellraiser inspired jewellery. After those first 3 days running around trying not to look too disheveled - the style bloggers are the fashion pack's paparazzis after all - I can clearly say that so far the highlight was Michael van der Ham and his awe-inspiring collages dresses. Dreamy, mesmerising, you name it, Michael is definitely the one to follow. 

Violaine Bernard.

Category : Fashion Week-Round up

London Fashion Week is upon us once again and I have to say that after a course of fifteen hundred vitamins and filling up my clutch bag with Compeed, I feel quite prepared to brave the fashion crowd.

Jade Parfitt at Jean-Pierre Braganza

Day 1 started with the Jean-Pierre Braganza show at the Victoria House. For S/S11 he decided to surprise everyone with a palette of lilac and hot pink, although his dark side did shine through at the end, with Jade Parfitt sporting a mini dress featuring a very Donnie Darko-esque skull print. The shoes were courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood. 

Among established brands such as Mawi, Jas MB and L’Agence, the exhibition at Somerset House, was also packed with designers to watch, a case in point being ‘The Only Son’.

The Only Son

 Next on my list were Felder Felder and Hannah Marshall showing back to back. Hannah Marshall started with a steamy but beautifully shot video by Rankin appropriately followed by a collection of sexy leather dresses, black chiffon shirts and touches of suede in acqua. The Sass & Bide collection was very cute with lots of jumpsuits and desirable bustier dresses worn with ankle boots.

Sass & Bide

Back to the On/Off venue at the Victoria House for the last show of the day, Aminaka Wilmont and their infamous draped wonders. Some appliqué of little butterflies was added to the show-stopping pieces, but my favorite had to be the multi knotted asymmetric mini in silk jersey, with a long sleeved black tee underneath. And the bird’s nest hairdo was a plus too. Feeling the fashion week buzz I dropped by Alto club on Carnaby St to congratulate Mr Braganza, and then made my way to the PPQ after party where The XX were playing the decks.

Violaine Bernard.

Category : Fashion Week-Round up

L.A.M.B

I am SO relieved fashion week is over, though I had a wonderful time.

I only had two shows to review the last day - and lucky, because there was an insane storm brewing that stopped trains and made getting around impossible.

I went to Oscar de la Renta which was a couture-like dream, and Sarah Jessica Parker was in attendance looking so cute as she lovingly eyed all the creations on the runway.

Oscar De La Renta

 Last I went to Gwen Stefani's label L.A.M.B's Spring/Summer 11 runway presentation - it featured some great crazy ruffle and ruched African-print dresses, but the streety basics that made up the majority of the collection didn't really work on a catwalk...

Phew, DONE! Now I can sleep!

Good luck to the reporters in London! Can't wait to see the collections!

Category : Fashion Week-Round up

Creatures of the Wind

Day 6 was THE day… and it all began with Rodarte, which was absolutely beautiful, and multilayered in concept and execution. I was instantly obsessed with the elaborate gold party dresses, but the more pared-back daywear-inspired pieces with delicate print were gorgeous too.


Rodarte

 Outside Rodarte I was snapped by magazines – I was wearing my favourite label LOVER, and one of the publications happened to be the NY Times, and the fashion writer Cathy Horyn placed me in a feature she did on ‘what the editors are wearing’, along with seven others including Carine Roitfeld and Hamish Bowles! When I met Cathy later that day – she recognised me from the photo she’d used – it was a magical moment, she is my absolute favourite style journalist. Anyway, after Rodarte I went to CREATURES OF THE WIND which was gorgeous! Those designers are so talented, and so totally lovely – I interviewed them for Lula magazine a little while back, and so it was lovely to meet them again at their first-ever show, which went off without a hitch.


Creatures of the Wind

Marc by Marc was next – and I loved it, it’s just so easy to wear and fun – not particularly original, but really just the kind of clothing we all want to wear. I popped in to Temperley and chatted with Alice Temperley about her latest collection for spring.


Marc by Marc Jacobs

Day 7 was all about 3.1 Philip Lim – which was gorgeous. The neutral palette was beautiful, his interesting ‘puzzle-piece’ garments; diaphanous sections of fabric that layer over one another to create one piece, were winners, and the chunky clog-style heels were great.


3.1 Philip Lim

Also Day 7 highlight was the fabulously 'derelicte' collection from Jeremy Scott! Crushed aluminium cans made up entire looks, and tank-tops and dresses featured NY bodega shopping bag label logs - 'I love NY', "Thank you for shopping here' and then in the same vein, with a slightly different effect, a plain old 'Fuck You'. Amazing! It ended with a structured, skin tight bridal-cum-straightjacket mini dress... Jeremy Scott then stepped out in angel wings and crotchless white leather chaps. He's in a punk-rock-fetish world of his own, and you have to admire it - or atleast give him props for his continually audacious vision.

Category : Fashion Week-Round up

Marios Schwab's Halston presentation

Day 4 was all about just one show as far as I am concerned- Marc Jacobs! I can say without exaggeration that it was my favourite show ever, and I was beyond ecstatic to sit front row and be able to really take in all the amazing sartorial action without obstruction. The look for the season ahead, according to MJ, is 70s-inspired and super-real. It was a fantastical reality on the catwalk, which was actually a sheet-metal installation not unlike a Richard Serra large-scale sculpture, that I think we would all like to be a part of. Such positivity, fun, bright colour and disco glamour - love!

The Marc Jacobs runway

Oh - the Halston presentation was really beautiful too – Marios Schwab has done an amazing job taking the iconic house back to its heyday.

Category : Fashion Week-Round up