18-01-2010 17:53 # add your comment

Milan day 1

I’ve got a new post on a magazine called The Rake as their Fashion editor at Large. My colleague and companion Ester Quek is stunning and chic, always a great look for the shows. She’s stopped regularly for her picture. I am perfecting skulking in the background. Morning yields little inspiration aside some particularly fine mozzarella. At Dolce & Gabbana the boys posturing Sicilian macho fair feels on the money right now, due to its devout masculinity and non frivolity. Classic Dolce tailoring and knits in charcoal, black and navy were deployed with white shirts or vests as a foil. Not remarkable, but functional (aside for some peculiar rustic painter and decorator distressed corduroy exits). Giuseppe Tornatore’s film ‘Baaria’ showed on a giant screen to underline the rural Sicilian caper.  A Roman legion of singleted, muscled torsos to finish broke the spell, but that’s commerce. I turned to find a PR in tears. The emotion of Baaria’s climax perhaps? No. The divine spectacle of the fashion underwear placement. Bless.


Also with an eye on the coffers, Raf at Jil Sander dropped a neat, dynamic collection. Pert flecked suits with ‘80s ‘Fosters Menswear’ shiny fabrication verged on an edgy photocopier salesman (in a good way). Duvet style matt finish ‘urban’ jackets were most fanciable and the perfect antidote to the wet Moncler epidemic that has gripped Italy.

At Trussardi’s new lifestyle store we were compressed into lifts to enter to the showroom above. We shared ours with fashion tour de force Milan Vukmirovi. He was sporting a nice black Hermes Cap Cod Double Tour watch I noticed, and duly flattered him on it in an attempt to secure an interview. It worked (check out the video below).  His Trussardi 1911 collection of lux-lumber chic paired with tactile, covetable knits and tailoring dealt with straight masculinity. The almost anti-high fashion collection of wearable clobber was refreshing. Canadian mountain-esque robust tartans on everything, worked with man staples from washed leathers to Savile Row pinstripe tailoring. He’s obviously double clever and grasped the nettle of the current clime, melding luxury with a look he says comes from the streets of Tokyo. I worry all that tartan could look Lux-Hoxton to us in London, after the overkill we’ve seen on the check Shoreditch trendies already.




Schlepping across town for Emporio Armani we were treated to Fraggle Rock style ski-wear and an under-pant parade with white Reeboks. The legendary bouts of spontaneous applause never cease to amaze. I missed my seat at Burbs as a consequence. Gutted doesn’t cover it.











Burberry Prorsum 


Burberry do a great coat, and that’s what they concentrated on. Great coats and vintage sheepskin flyers fused and transmuted into a Bladerunner meets WWII aviator aesthetic. Other military cavalry coats worked as strong statements too. “If you’re gonna do something bold as a man, do it in your outerwear” was the message. Yazoo, OMD and Ultravox provided the mood, underlying the handsome and imposing overcoats’ suitability for hanging about in thick fog in. Dinner with Burbs later was a relaxed affair; the new campaign boys looking like posh sixth-formers on a foreign trip. Later, outside the Principe de Savoy I made Matt Gilmore (Dave’s of Pink Flloyd’s son) smoke a Cohibo with me. It made him dizzy. Serves him right for being charming and good looking.

The Principe bar has gone all glam with a flashing bar and DJ instead of its old piano. It’s spoilt the old time vibe in there. I blame Beckham for using the gaff as his Milan residence while playing for AC. Back in the day the staff used to go to bed and leave us in there, with the bar untended. They still had Lire then mind, and Beckham still had a couple of inches of skin without tattoos. A sign of the times. As for now so far; caution, manly outerwear and Cohibas prevail over homo-erotic processions. Stubbs out.

- Tom Stubbs

   

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Contributors


TOM STUBBS, WRITER
Tom Stubbs is a stylist and writer who works for Sunday Times Style, The Rake, The Quarterly, FT How To Spend It, and Finch’s Quarterly. He has also just launched his own blog www.styleanderror.co.uk. Stubbs is reporting live from the AW10 menswear shows in Milan.

Click here to read the blog.

INDIGO CLARKE, WRITER
Writer Indigo Clarke is Fashion Features Editor for Lula Magazine UK, Editor at Large for Oyster Magazine AUS, Contributing Features Editor for Russh Magazine AUS, Correspondent for Harper’s Bazaar AUS and also writes features for AnOther Magazine UK, Plastique Magazine UK and The Melbourne Age Newspaper. Reporting from the big apple, Indigo brings us the front row fashion from New York Fashion Week.

COCO LE FREAK C'EST CHIC, BLOGGER
Coco – aside from being a full-time fashion enthusiast, is a photo-journalist, trend forecaster and writer. She presents her ‘collection of musings, opinions and inspirations’ from the realm of fashion and lifestyle in her eponymous blog ‘Coco Le Freak C’est Chic’. Coco brings her unique take on street style to the farfetch.com blog.

Click here to read the blog.

ROBIN SCHULIÉ, BUYER
As buyer for the legendary Parisian boutique Maria Luisa, Robin works alongside founder Maria Luisa Poumaillou to curate the diverse and directional collection that the boutique has become renowned for. As a regular at the international shows, Robin is reporting from Paris on the labels to watch for SS10.

VIOLAINE BERNARD, PR
As the PR director for London boutique Feathers, Violaine has to be up to speed on all of the key trends and new collections from global designers and fresh, new talent. This September, she brings us the lowdown on the definitive shows from London Fashion Week and as a native Parisian she will also be heading to some of the Paris runways too.

ANDREA MOLTENI, BUYER
As co-buyer and member of the founding Molteni family behind luxury Italian boutique Tessabit, Andrea Molteni spreads his time between buying appointments, publicising the boutique and scouring trade shows for undiscovered talent. Andrea brings us the lowdown on the collections, people and parties from Milan Fashion Week.


 

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