Carven revivalOne of my best surprises has been the revival of the old French house of Carven, due to hit the stores (at least ours!). I have to admit I like everything about their strategy. Low profile, low key, never pretentious, amazingly low prices (thanks to their widely sold menswear) and lead by a very young and dynamic team, from designer Guillaume Henry to the studio and sales people, right thorugh to the photographer who shot their visuals Damien Blottiere. They don't want to compete with the big brands and the catwalk circuit but I have to admit they managed to get one of the most exciting and sensible products of the season. Very youthful proportions (gotta show some leg you know), draped body-hugging jersey dresses (but never vulgar), French tradition inspired prints, short overpowered jackets, structured knits... Very clever for our times - maybe a third way of fashion development between high fashion and high street: not pricey AND creative? I am expecting a lot from such a non-obnoxious lot.
Let's talk about more delightsToday's show highlight was, for me - Bernhard Willhelm. Yes I know Lanvin etc showed today but I still enjoyed Bernhard's show more; because I praise identity, always favour elegance (even though sometimes quirky) and love freedom. And Bernhard’s collection always perfectly satisfies these criteria. People have stuck him in the funny/pop/late teenagers/sweatshirt designer genre when he is actually one of the most talented people of his generation. His work is complex and his word unique, with the strength of Westwood's extraordinary cuts and the unexpected elegance of Margiela. Anyone remembering his tremendous work for the revival of the house of Capucci knows how smart and chic this guy is… Incredible volume and cuts, cool fabrics and unseen prints - one of my favourite collections - again that doesn't get enough praise.
JESSIE WEISS, WRITERJessica Weiss is the voice behind Germany’s biggest fashion blog LesMads. Since it’s conception in 2007, Berlin based LesMads has won the prestigious ‘Lead Award’ for Best Weblog 2010. Jessica will be bringing us the latest in style news and her hot picks from farfetch.com.
TOM STUBBS, WRITERTom Stubbs is a stylist and writer who works for Sunday Times Style, The Rake, The Quarterly, FT How To Spend It, and Finch’s Quarterly. He also writes his own blog www.styleanderror.co.uk. Stubbs is our menswear fashion week correspondent.
INDIGO CLARKE, WRITERWriter Indigo Clarke is Fashion Features Editor for Lula Magazine UK, Editor at Large for Oyster Magazine AUS, Contributing Features Editor for Russh Magazine AUS, Correspondent for Harper’s Bazaar AUS and also writes features for AnOther Magazine UK, Plastique Magazine UK and The Melbourne Age Newspaper. Reporting from the big apple, Indigo brings us the front row news as our New York Fashion Week correspondent.
VIOLAINE BERNARD, WRITER Violaine is Fashion Editor of new quarterly style magazine Velour, each season she brings us the latest activity from London Fashion Week.