15th February 2010
Wow. What a start to Autumn/Winter 2010. The hellish snowstorm that erupted the night before NYFW began meant that fashion girls like me had to trek around in weird snow-ready shoes - I was actually wearing black high-top cons all day! Being canvas, they were soaked right through, as the sleet poured down in every direction. It was pretty great to see hardcore fashionistas pairing their 'fierce' black body-con mini's with wellington boots, and to see the usual uniform of polished hair and make-up dishevelled and crazy. Cushnie et Ochs was the first show I saw that really launched the new season for me - it was well-conceived, perfectly polished and concise. The knitwear was incredible - oversize charcoal woollen cardigans featuring unusual draped braiding and plaiting appeared to be instant classics, more an invention of a new basic than reinterpretation of a design archetype. The design duo behind the label, Michelle Ochs and Carly Cushnie, said backstage, "We design for a woman who is strong, confident and aware of her body and sexuality. This season we created a very layered collection, we included quite a few jackets and coats and gave them sex appeal – you should be able to be covered up in a winter coat and still look sexy. We also introduced hats and gloves for the first time.”
Another highlight was Jen Kao, whose downtown-cool collection was inspired, interestingly enough, by minerals found in the American History Museum.
This was translated into interesting beading and embellishment throughout a strong collection that had Victorian and even fetish overtones.
Erin Wasson x RVCA was, to be expected, super cool and as much a rock show as fashion show - which is always refreshing. Experimental Brooklyn band Yeasayer contributed a jangly, folky soundtrack to a very light, white and summery Winter collection shown in the exotic surrounds of a Persian carpet showroom. This was very much a Californian interpretation of Winter attire - white mini-shorts and cream draped jersey layers, being shown to a crowd who had been traipsing across piles of snow and black ice all day. Day two's highlight was definitely London's own Preen... They were very much on top of their game with an ultra modern collection of floral and lace dresses and deconstructed suiting. The front row included Mishapes’ Leigh Lezark and Julia Restoin Roitfeld, as well as key American and British press.
And finally, Jason Wu had some great, unfussy oversized grandma-style daywear, but quite over the top and referential eveningwear. Day 3, I'm ready!